Another thought, is that the engine never overheated, it seems like the gasket just failed spontaneously it was on a cold start the engine was idling okay I let it warm for about a minute then moved off and it died, I don't have a precision bar to test for warp and don't have the time to wait...

Thank you @J_D I read through their entire 1.8 K Series guide and a thing I saw was that LR recommend that the threads of the head bolts be lightly coated in oil, I assume as it is not mentioned that they mean just use 15W40 oil nothing special? If you could let me know if anyone has done this...

Took Today to get the head of the block to see what form of gasket I would need and I guess before I go buying a head gasket kit, what yall's opinions be and or thoughts? First of all, I didn't take apart the camshafts, I simply lined them up then took the head off, is it worth disassembling...

So, Today went very badly. I finally got the exhaust fixed and replacement prop however upon finally starting the car after my last encounter where it suddenly stopped then smoked from the intake, it would crank nice and easy, however it would not start up, it sounded like it was losing...

Hey! Me again, finally got my exhaust will fit that this weekend, I also found a used prop of facebook so we will see how that goes but it was nice and cheap, the plan is to fit the new prop test it, if it is good, then while running this one work on reconning my current one which has been...

If you need someone to read the codes, I am in the Southampton/Portsmouth area got a Icarsoft V3, runs the land rover OBD requirements, let me know :)

@Alibro Trying to source money for the new exhaust at the moment as my daily driver Nissan has just up and went too :mad: However, that is to be fixed soon-ish may even be a couple months before I do any work on this silly car, however the good news is that the coolant is still topped up, the...

I have been thinking for a while about this now and anytime I am under my Freelander I can see it. (This applies to the 1.8 Petrol I am not sure about the TD4 engine layout) First of all you may think track car? no chance on earth. But I think it is plausible yes with an unprecedented amount...

I couldn't recommend doing your own work where possible, garage wanted £500! to do the lower control arm ball joint. replaced all the joints with a new arm for £30. Ridiculous...

Today I got fed up of my land rover and kick the drivers door because it ****ed me off. Now the window won't go down... lesson learned next time kick it harder so the frame falls out and I can scrap it :mad: I Jest, I did blow it up though :) got quite a lot of smoke coming from the...

Just taken a look and it's £185 for a recon and 285 if I don't send mine back would that change anything you mention? I wouldn't say I want to go out of my way to do it but thinking long term it may be cheaper just want to drive the bloody thing. IRD I have one I could take from my diesel TD4...

I am looking at doing this to my VCU as currently I was unknowingly driving in RWD as my gearbox went kaput and towed another car almost 200 miles, either way VCU is cooked and I am wondering anyone that has done it. Is it worth it? I would need a vice, tapping kit and grease nipples along with...

Not sure about newer ones but the FL1 with issues is almost worthless, I have bought 3 now for 300 or less ranging from 1999 to 2004 :)

Not sure about the lock on the door but try this for the rear window; 1. Disconnect Negative cable from battery 2. Disconnect Positive Cable from battery 3. touch the cables together and hold for 15-20 seconds 4. Put the positive cable back on 5. Put the negative cable back on 6. Window will go...

Yes. It will be fused with the force of a thousand stars :D never had to do a bearing though always replaced it with the hub so I can't provide any advice unfortunately :(

Can confirm when I undid mine with a 2 ft breaker bar plus 6ft of trolley jack handle the crack echoed for centuries doing it a second time will not happen...

I had to do the front wheel hub on my FL1 and did not have the tools, the hub nut is tightened to 400NM from the factory which is ridiculous and you need to replace it after removing it, however with my lack of tools I managed to get a gear puller from my local toolstation (UK if you are in US)...

Not having a FL 2 but this sounds like an ABS / wheel sensor fault as all of the errors would be linked to the wheels, could try replacing the ABS sensor probably started to get all sorts of confused. Had a similar driving experience on a BMW 1 Series when the wheel speed sensor went on that.

So... The weekend has been busy got a few people together and managed to replace the gearbox in a day, lots of stress and hard to reach bolts but it's back in and I can confirm that the front drive now works, the splines on the gearbox had sheared off. To remove the gearbox though I had to cut...

Honestly, sometimes the latch release actuator gets stuck in the down position so when closing the door and pressing the handle the actuator does not move, I sometimes have to kick the s*** out of my rear boot then try the handle and it will open haha :)