Was talking to Les at CRNW last week, and he said some customer have ordered FoB's from LR but got nowhere. don't know if it's true, but LR happily took their money but HOF no longer supply. Problem is LR cannot refund as HOF have not accepted or cancelled the order. Customer stuck in limbo...

If you have the original FoB but it broken, there are places that refurbish them. Try Les first. https://lesedwards.co.uk/contact/ If you really want the pain of a 3rd party system, there was someone on rangerovers.net that did it.

Nope, that part of the casing seems to be one piece. The only split is in the centre of the two main halves - see the clip in this picture.

I was on the same "cheaper to pay" option for a while, especially as for my once a week trip, the cost was shared with my mate. But recently Wife's FL1 blew a core plug, and daughters Corse failed head gasket on same weekend !! So bought a cheap run-around which we still got. . . . .a little...

No not the self-tapping screw mod. That's to spread the front section slightly, and helps free up the footwell flaps. In my case, it's the top flaps that control the screen & vent airflow. I removed the rod linking the two flaps together, and the gear that engages with the motor gear...

Yes I know bad title…… Anyway was sorting my spare heater box distribution stiffness today, and figured out it was just the top two that do the dash vents & screen. After removing only that gear the distribution gears moved freely again. Problem is even after taking the box apart & removing...

He said “power steering pump” ……. Not the steering shaft !!

Agreed, for £12.50 might as well have the biggest baddest engine available !!

and on most Linux or BSD systems (and Juniper, Cisco, etc.), just use tab completion . . . . . .MS haven't caught up yet !!

Found the original Wiper Timer article in case anyone is interested. Not that we need it these days !!

slight correction to what I said above. The manifolds stay attached to the head, so you disconnect the downpipes, and lift the heads off complete with manifolds !! Then unbolting them is easy.

Agreed, I had a timer version first !! The other was a project in an electronics mag, so I thought why not. No wife or kids back then, so life was simpler & only one car to fix !!

When I was doing my project P38, I modified the exhaust manifolds a bit. Just a small cut-away on the flange that bolts to the heads. Now the head bolts clear the manifold, so next time the heads need to come off, the manifolds simply stay attached !!

Many years ago I wanted intermittent wipe for my Jag XJ6 Series 2. All it had was Off, Slow & Fast, plus the single wipe. Made a small electronics board that would remeber the time between two single manual wipes, and then keep doing that interval. When it worked, it was much better than...

FOB not working this morning. Had to use Merc C180 Coupe instead !! (40mpg on M25 & M3) Cleaned contacts & changed batteries this evening. Then had to do EKA & re sync but all working again

If you're a complete masochist and really want that old android to work, you could try a manual install from here. https://www.apkmirror.com/apk/google-inc/maps/variant-%7B%22minapi_slug%22%3A%22minapi-19%22%7D/ BUT, there's a high chance the app will not actually connect to google & grab any...

or fit a newer Android ? Plenty out there, but by all accounts a big job !! Glad I don't have one of those rust buckets.

or go to a local body shop, and get them to clean up the rust & paint the tank !! MoT guy should then be happy !! Does he actually know it's an air tank ??

Android 4.4 is really old. Google maps, etc. needs at least Android 8. Best solution is as above . . . . connect bluetooth for hands-free and use a modern phone for Nav & Calls.

As you have another tank ready, show the local mechanics that it's only the airline & two bolts to change the tank !! If they are scared of the airline :D, just pull the airline at the valve block yourself, and get them to do the tank.