That's my thought as well. Weather not ideal today though !!

The nut on the top cable is tight, but the terminal feels slightly loose. Fusebox needs to come out & get inspected properly.

But acceleration implies a change in speed, not steady state motion of the earth !!

If you think it's the wiper motors causing the drain just unplug them ?? Clearly something isn't swithcing off, therefore go through the fuses . . . . . .

Well the values are meaningless, because you cannot be accelerating when the car is stationary. . . . unless JLR assume 0.4-0.6m/s^2 is not moving !! Maybe that's why they take so long to answer the phone !!

My green P38 ran perfect all the way from Ferndown to Langley this afternoon . . . and then after dinner 3 miles to drop off a fridge & freezer and it cut out completely. All lights, engine, everything dead. Even hazards not working. Checked battery cables, etc & all seemed ok. Banged the...

Sensor voltage yes somewhere between 0v-5v, but if the car isn't moving surely acceleration should be zero !!

Many cars have the diag port powered all the time, and yes that's probably your battery drain.

As far as I know, an L322 only has an accelerometer sensor for the SRS system. If you are diagnosing the suspension then your diag is converting height readings into acceleration !!

Doesn’t really matter. You’re looking for steady drain. Just makes sure it does do DC current. Ideally Amazon returnable in case it doesn’t!!

Schrader valves is the best test. I use a tee-piece on the front & rear pairs, so only need two valves. This way they inflate L-R together.

No don't keep opening & closing the door. 1. Engine off & key out. 2. Open the door, and then close the latch as if the door was shut using a screwdriver. Also open the bonnet & disconnect the bonnet switch (it's in the scuttle on offside or left as you look at the car from the front)...

I meant 1 or 2 corners, not valve numbers !! Anyways rear right is underneath so you cannot easily test for leaks with the block in the car.

Moving quite fast for a car that's switched off !! . . . . . . but is that up or down, and how long was it accelerating for ? https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/acceleration

Are all four corners down, or just 1 or 2 ? Could be the solenoids weeping slightly ?

In addition to closing the latch with door open, do the bonnet switch as well. . . . . If I remember correct, the switch is open circuit when bonnet is closed, so simply unplug it. That way you can get to internal and engine bay electrics which the car thinks it's closed & locked. Defeinitely...

Yes but which one is you ??

Here's two UK suppliers: https://www.bmstechnologies.co.uk/product/hankook-heavy-duty-commercial-battery-mf31-1000/ https://www.powerland.co.uk/products/hankook-mf31-1000-643-644-heavy-duty-starter-battery-12v-ah115-cold-cranking-1000amps

There is no keyswitch in left latch on RHD car !! Only CDL & Door Ajar.

It's specifically not recommended to connect the car end of the Nanocom first, because you can cause issues when plugging in the 15pin connector (easy to short things). BBS says to always connect the cable to Nano first, and then plug into the diag port. I'm considering extending the diag port...