Not sure about the diesel but when I did my GEMS tank, I just added a length or pipe to the fuel feed in the engine bay, and bridged the pump relay to pump the tank out. But if the in-tank pump has failed that's not gonna work !! Otherwise maybe a pump with good initial suction on the fumes...

Unless that remote can send the FOB code to the BECM, you will always have the immobilized issue. There are firms out ther that will re-program the engine ECU to remove the need for a BECM code, but the BECM will still expect it from the FOB. You can turn off the BECM Alarm & Immobilisation...

There seem to be a few variations depending on VIN number. Might be best to check & measure yours ? https://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/91178/91187/7217 https://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/91178/91187/7218

Yes you can do it but it's very awkward. I did mine after removing the tank for a pump replacement. RAVE makes it sound easier than it actually is !! Ideally drain the tank first, because then you can do both hoses. Use some soapy water on the fittings to make it easier to move the...

So after you've done all the injector cleaning, during re-assembly seal it properly, and then see if the high idle is solved !!

What was the condition of the seal on the plenum chamber ?

I tried that app just to see. Didn’t work

Suspension should not need to be dropped for testing - sounds like they are not following the official MOT Test Guides ?? Take it to a proper MOT tester.

OK step by step. You can generally ignore the page numbers. In main menu click the plus sign for the Electrical Manuals. Then select the year of your car. Next click the plus sign for the "Circuit" section. Now select the "D1 - Anti-Lock Braking System" section. Now the right panel...

Remember to get some RTV sealant for the plenum.

@marjon The first post above with the meter confused me. It sounded like injector ohms, when he was measuring the TPS. @mjb.thomassen Yes injectors should definitely be about 16ohms. Cleaning them always helps, especially if the spray pattern is irregular. It should be a nice cone shape...

Seems expensive

That says 570ohms to me, which should also work on 2k range, so the meter contacts probably need a clean judging by the dirt on the meter. Hopefully you measured the resistance of the injectors with the ECU wire disconnected ? 570ohms is far too high. They should be around 16ohms. From RAVE:

+2 on that . . . . had corrosion on both my P38 diag connectors. Also do you hear the dash beeps when connecting & clicking Initialise ? If not check the Timer Relay is correct under the left seat.

Look 3 posts back !!

Chapter D1. Page number varies with RAVE version, but ABS starts on P108 in my copy. And in the "RAVE One File PDF", the ABS starts on page 1457, but it's still section D1 in every version !!

Probably this one https://ftdichip.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/CDM212364_Setup.zip D3xx are for USB3 devices. As far as I know most usb-serial cables are usb2.

Move your EAS questions to another thread. Airlines are colour coded: Connector pins & wire colours.

Main menu. Pick your year. Then look for ABS section.

Usually here: https://googlethatforyou.com?q=ftdi%20usb%20serial%20driver%20installer