Cannot advise but an auto elec to remove said immobiliser is looking likely

Impressive start to ownership;) If you haven't, add timing belt to your list:cool:

Legally OK but more a matter of comfort/safety and your own view on risk Personally feel they're safer without the lap belts

Been pleased with the Rhino Bars on mine

Honestly not sure what sparex is - if it's tractor paint will be fine Just ordered synthetic from a paint shop Yes will go over cellulose without bubbling Brushing primer can be a pain as you'll get ridges and brush marks, so you'll spend loads of effort using wet and dry paper to get smooth...

Brush painting in Synthetic is real easy and available in all the RAL colours 2.5 litres will more than do the outside of a Landy As ever good prep, etch priming any bare ali and then spay priming and flatting back add to the finish Good quality brushes are well worth the investment. When it...

Mine are the 'straight bits' in your second picture Guess the 'one piece' door is a newer replacement can't advise whether LR orginal or not

Not used them myself, but think I'm right in saying they are generally seen as knowledgable and helpful to deal with I was looking for a recon gearbox, but they were a bit on the expensive side and I eneded up sourcing elsewhere

Non return valve can also get all bunged up as well as the jets and pipe Pull pipe off of motor and see if water comes out the pump Assuming it does, blow out the pipe line with compressed air - works much better than poking needles down the jets!

As Richard says - pop it in and out a couple of times a month to keep linkage loose, and lube the linkage when doing the 6 monthly oils service

Struck me as a little over priced, but if the chassis is galvanised as described and bulkhead really solid and runs well could be worth £7k ish Really need to crawl all over it, and have a read of this https://www.scribd.com/mobile/doc/80625539

Always a good moment

Offer it up and see Might get away with just altering the bars that go from the base to the chassis if everything else lines up with the crossmember holes Alternatively Pressbrake may be able to advise

Another vote here for WD40

If it's not doing anything with the switch bypassed (i.e. wired directly to 12v) is sounding like either a jammed or dead motor

Assuming chassis and bulkhead ok, got to be £2.5k, and possibly nudging £3k as winter approaches

Odd. I'd start by checking the wire to the stop solonoid (chaffing, cleanliness, on good and tight) but do wonder if an ignition switch failure Could try starting and then moving the key about in the barrel/giving the steering column area a decent thump to see if you can replicate the issue

Like that a lot - very smart

Never met Clive aka Presbrake, but from what I've read his engineering skills are worth taking notice of

Glad you're sorted