You'll need a couple of metres of additional cable to run the light over to the nearside. There's enough cable on them as they come to fit on the offside.

I wired them in to the boot light (offside rear panel). Ran the cable under the trim and up the pillar on the offside, under the carpet and behind the trim on the nearside. The current draw is tiny, so no issue running the cabling. Note that you have to run earth and live to both, you can't...

It's still quite damp over here.......

I wired in a couple of COB DRLs on the C pillars of my 3 door and its bright enough to use as an operating theatre. At under a fiver for the pair it was rude not to! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161321822717

Ideally rotate them front to back every 4k - 6k miles to even out front to rear wear

Silly question - you've not unplugged the cam sensor while checking everything over have you?

Another advantage to HID on my D3 - The HID ballast manages the voltage and you only use the halogen main beam lamps intermittently so shorter lamp life is less important. Saying that I have some HID Driving Lamps on the Freelander and the strike-to-hot time is too long for my liking. May...

Having previously owned a few tratters, complete with their delightful arcing headlamp switch, I did some checks on voltage at the bulb on the Freelander and was pleased to see 13.6v at the lamp, with 14.2 at the battery (2 minutes of idling from start). With high quality relays and some...

Just swapped to these today from NightBreakers. Beam is more precise (with the Osram I had to use the headlamp adjuster and knock it down one notch) and good light output. I managed to get them for £18/pair from Amazon, which is a bargain.

No problem. Keep that site in your "favourites" as it's invaluable when sourcing some of the more obscure parts.

That cover wasn't ever fitted on later UK spec Freelander TD4s :confused: Looking at the pictures, you would have to remove the "vanity" cover with the Land Rover logo and re-use the mounting points to fit the cover you've bought. More on this thread...

The last defender rolled off the production line earlier today, with it's lights flashing and horn sounding...... They think the fault is probably in the fuse box...

My first D3 (06) was Cairns. Looked stunning when clean but took too much effort so went for lazy Zermatt silver when I bought the current one back in 2008. Keep wondering about changing it but at 145,000 miles it's barely run in and meets our needs so why change.

Ok, will measure up when mine arrives.

..... or there may be a plan "b". I won an auction for an identical set of bars that states "all fixings, seals etc" last night. When it turns up (probably Friday next week) I'll take some measurements. It may be possible to make up a replacement using some box section and a rivnut/captive nut.

They may argue that they didn't list "fittings" or "fixings" but they're only roofbars if all the bits are there. Without them, they're just metal tubes and should be valued accordingly.

Not available separately - Open an ebay dispute and get yourself a refund.

Item 6 in these instructions? https://topix.landrover.jlrext.com/topix/content/document/view?id=70815&groupId=1668

When you say mounting points, do you mean the captive nut the bars bolt to?

Mikey, that turbo...... That's got fun written all over it. If you're getting rid, can you wait until I've topped up my toy fund please!?!?