Cheers guys. I'm just so short of time at the moment the appeal of 10 minutes with an air wrench, torque wrench and grease gun and being back on the road really appeals. When I did the rear it was a right nightmare with at least 2 incorrect UJ types being supplied and an easy job turned into a...

Thanks again guys...took the prop off and it's fairly FUBAR'd. The end that never had a grease nipple (as in no hole, one had never been fitted) was dry and knackered. The top end was greasy and knackered, and the splines seized up! TBH I'm quite surprised, I am pretty good with keeping...

That's really helpful, thanks guys. I'll whip the existing prop off and run it up the road in diff lock and make sure that the propshaft is my issue. If it is, I'll then check the splines and decide whether to replace the UJs or the whole prop. Thanks again...great info.

I have a hideous noise coming from the front of my 110. Partly graunching/squeaking, partly tinkle-tinkle-tinkle. It's worst under power at low speeds or on a trailing throttle...it does not seem too bad at speed at a steady throttle. I'm hoping it's front prop UJ's as it sounds horrific...

Thanks all...although as per the post, due to various circumstances not under my control right now I simply do not have the time to do this myself. I think I'll go for a commercially applied Dinitrol treatment...it will do me for now. Thanks again!

I've got a 1986 110 CSW that does have a solid, never welded chassis, but it's starting to look a bit surface scabby in places and I want to "catch it" now and get it rust proofed. With the best will in the world, I'm just not going to have the time to do a full DIY/Buzzweld job, so I just want...

Thanks @Grim...just asked to join on FB and awaiting acceptance. Thanks!

Just want to say a huge thanks to all that helped on this thread. I could not be bothered to repair the alt for the sake of £60 off eBay for a new one, just really short of time at the mo! Anyway, all installed, charge lamp and voltmeter back where they should be!!! Thanks again!!!

Tried this...dash light came on straightaway. Cleaned the alt terminals, still no joy, so it looks like the alt is dead. Ho hum. But many thanks for your input!!

^ Eek!!! She's got a 200Tdi in place of the original 2.5n/a (done before I owned her) and a lot of it was a bit of a bodge. I've sorted a lot of it since (temp gauge, exhaust and intake arrangements) Do you think I should beef them up a bit? Where does that power cable actually go to?

Thanks guys. I have done head gaskets, gearbox and engine swaps, all kinds of mechanical stuff but electrickery really isn't my strong point! So for the avoidance of all doubt, here is the back of my alt, and the wires (from left to right) are as follows...is this correct? + is the two...

Guys, thanks for the advice. Had a very quick look at this tonight but not enough time to do it properly. I know the alternator light bulb is OK because I swapped it, and I cleaned the battery terminals and clamps. However it's still not lighting up at any point. I've not tried a multimeter...

I drove over to the 70th Anniversary event at Gaydon at the weekend, looking at my voltmeter on the way over which was showing an ominous 11.5V. Sure enough, I could not start it again when I got there and got jump started by a kind person to get home. The battery has accepted a charge from my...

Thanks very much for the replies all. As I have a DB adjustable drop-plate set up, I'll do it properly as has been recommended and just buy another mount and get a proper NATO hitch and swap as/if needed, and never worry about it failing. Thanks again!

Yep. Just be aware on my order all the bits came in one bag...so you might want to not actually strip the old detent unit until you have the new bits in your hand and can see which spring goes where. In fairness my new springs were idiot proof..i.e you could not get them the wrong way around...

James...thanks as always for your sage words. Flat...I've sorted it, easy job sir. Parts available from Britcar are: 571146 571439 FRC6318 That's your two springs and ball bearing. First, disconnect the battery (joke) . Lever gaiter off, 4 bolts for the stick to come out, 2 bolts on the...

I'm looking at fitting one of these hitches so I can tow both a standard trailer and a Sankey on a NATO hitch without swapping hitches. Are they any good? Probably worth saying that I'm unlikely to be towing the Sankey over any particularly challenging terrain, possibly farm tracks or similar...

Out of interest, when I push the plunger in, obviously the BB engages in the groove and that is the detent. Is that it in terms of movement? Or when I select reverse am I going on past that detent if that makes sense?

Thanks James. I think by virtue of the fact that I can do it between finger and thumb rather than using a vice speaks volumes!

Over the weekend my 110 passed it's MOT and then promptly got gearbox issues. Basically there's no difference in resistance between moving the lever left for the 1-2 plane, and then further to the left for the reverse plane. Gaiter off, the big springs external to the lever assembly looked...