Replacing just the green pipe is pretty straight forward, it can be done at the roadside. The LR instructions mention dropping the tank but it's completely unnecessary. It can be done lying under the car without too much faff with the tank in place. I'm not sure even Britpart could do a bad...

Yes. The joint is by the body mount just in front of the crossmember on the (UK) driver's side

I had this with mine on both the boot and drivers door, it'll be the the door latch/actuator assembly - I don't think they're serviceable nor available new, so just replace with a known good one.

The outer row (arch liner to wing) are flanged screws (#10), the inner row (arch liner to inner arch) are plastic rivets (#9). Despite the parts diagram suggesting otherwise, they all go from inwards from the arch liner into the wing/body.

Measure the ID on the other side of the seal - it should be 36mm.

Yeah, some councils are much better than others, especially when it comes to showing whether there's a TRO or a TTRO on a right of way. TW2 makes it much easier, especially now you can upload a GPX when checking lanes. I only bother with the council website these days if I need to report a...

When off road under 25mph the ACE doesn't lock up, it goes soft. It's better than a normal ARB off road.

Seems more like it's probably the gutter or maybe the top of the windscreen.

They're all old and the rubber seals deteriorate and/or flatten over time. I just think that most people don't care enough about opening them so take the simplest/cheapest route of sealing them up.

There's not a lot to do. There's the seal from the roof to the sunroof frame which can be sealed with Tigerseal or similar, and there's the seal from the frame to the glass which isn't particularly expensive. That's it. If it leaked a lot before the previous owner sealed it, the water might have...

Sounds like the outlet from the oil cooler - on a later TD5 it goes to the EGR cooler so if that's gone then it's useless which is presumably why it's blanked off. Just replace the rubber pipe and bolt combo with a 19mm silicone blank.

This is correct, it won't engage the compressor if the pressure is too low. Most common point is the pipe that runs by the headlight with the arrow on this picture: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/discovery-2-air-conditioning.113651/post-1179629

It's fine, the black wire isn't needed as the switch earths through its body.

If you don't drain it first, it'll all drop into the first cylinder when you remove the first injector. Disconnecting the fuel lines from the FPR is indeed the way to drain it out of the head - it's even what's in the LR workshop manual. It's worked when fuel stops coming out of the connections...

On the later TD5s it feeds the EGR cooler, so if that's been removed or blanked it doesn't do anything. On earlier TD5s from it went to an inlet on the radiator, but LR brought out an updated radiator design where that inlet was blanked off.

Which Discovery do you have? Propshaft bearing sounds like D3/4, the rubber donut mentioned above is D1/2.

Yeah it's the torque converter from the D2 V8 and (I think) the P38 4.0 V8

She's been a pain for years and years and the council will do nothing about it. Everyone I know avoids Standon ford. It's not worth the hassle. Plenty of other fords in the area, even if they are shorter.

It's not supposed to go through the hole in the outrigger with the steps fitted. How you've got it is correct. The hole is where the splash guards bolt to when steps aren't fitted though.

Undo that jubilee clip and put the pipe going to the radiator onto the other pipe.