Yes. Sorry for no explanation. The crack is where the rubber o ring seals.

Have you removed the regulator? Apparently you can access the bottom bolt by taking the wheel off and getting to it via the wheel arch. Perhaps removing the starter might get access to it from below. I hadn't had a problem with mine but I thought I would change it before putting the engine in.

No it isn't fluorescent. You get 3 cans - cleaner, dye and developer. The dye is purple and the developer is white. It doesn't use a fluorescent light. I had the head off as the piston had been badly damaged and as it turned out the bore as well. It might be able to use it in situ with the...

Seems to be the same story as mine. Cracked head and piston damage. The damage was much worse in mine so replacement emgine was the only option. Once my new top hose arrives ity should be all good to go. Time will tell if the replacement enmgine is good. Starts and sounds alright, but...

I couldn't see any crack in my 15p engine until I tried a leak detection kit. Hard to believe such an insignificant looking defect could cause such a problem.

If it is a D" then should be 7/16". https://allbrit.de/epc.cfm?PAGE=N01015&CAR=L5&SPRACHE=EN

Three of mine disintegrated. I had a loom with the replacement engine I bought so I cut three of them off that and soldered them onto my harness. Not the prettiest soldering job but strong.

Finally getting to the end of the engine replacement. Connected up the last of the electrics and plumbing today. Filled with oil and coolant. The coolant poured straight out via an outlet/inlet at the bottom of the radiator. Checked and saw that I had connected the pipe from the fuel cooler...

Thanks. Thats good to know. i will bolt up the fuel cooler and then fit remaining connections. Not allowed near it today though. lol.

I am putting it all back on. The fuel cooler is connected but not bolted into podition. I am now connecting up the loom. I need to know if it just sits beneath the fuel cooler. If that is the case then I will bolt the cooler in position and the connect up the wiring. Thanks.

I have fitted a replacement TD5 to our disco. The installation is nearly finished. It is just thew wiring. I have connected up the passenger side and a couple of the glow plug connectors. The silly question is where does the main loom sit? Do I bolt on ther fuel cooler and fasten the loom...

http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1232/37503/37504/2892/37733

There are also sealing rings for the oil feed pipe.

None of the studs snapped when I removed the exhaust manifold and turbo on mine. The front exhaust to middle section just bolt together without a gasket but they are fixed studs - at least that is how they looked on ours. I assume the exhaust manifold doesn't have to come off or the turbo...

Happy Christmas to all.

You can carefully lever injectors out with something like a heel bar. When it starts playing up try it with the fuel tank cap loosened.

Thanks for that. The injectors are from the original engine and put back in the same order. I will use the original harness. The glow plug connectors were damaged on removal. Parts of the shrouds are missing on some. Is that likely to cause any major problems?

My daughter when she was younger swung a door on my new car that was a couple of months old and put a dent in it. My car is half the price to run compared to the disco. The Post Office morris minor telephone vans years ago used to have rubber front wings according to my mate who drove one.

I bought an engine and the harness is the one that came with the engine. I still have my original harness. Would I be better just using my original harness? If the engine was from a defender then would it still work with my loom and ECU? Thanks.

They seem to be connectors C0570 and C0571.