Personally I wouldn't bother with a rebuild kit. Did'nt work on mine. Bought a genuine one. Be aware that the genuine one is MODIFIED.

I wonder why the wastegate actuator had been bypassed, presumably by the previous owner, probably looking for more boost. I'd be looking at the turbo for wear, ie play in the shaft.

Try liberally spraying the back of the alternator with WD40 or similar. Solved mine.

Funningly enough I have the reverse problem with my D2. I suffer with constant back problems which goes away when seated in the car. Maybe you too have a medical problem.

Oiling wont make a blind bit of difference. I eventually fitted a new lock and adjusted the handle rod, ie, lengthened it.

Have a similar problem myself. The inner splash guard prevents easy access to the light. The splash guard can be folded back if you remove the 3 bolts at the bottom. Then there are 2 self tappers at the bottom of the light which cant be accessed. I am considering drilling two holes in the bottom...

I'm not convinced it's the DMF at fault. Could be a problem with the clutch activating system, ie master cylinder or slave cylinder sticking, although it'll be a new one on me but hey ho it's a landrover!

Are you getting judder when you let the clutch in?

Don't take it anywhere near the sea if you want it to stay "solid":(

Immobilizers have been known to drain batteries.

The car only lifts about 20mm on start up. Difficult to see unless you relate it to a fixed object.

Locks above 4mph eh. Mine never has. How does this affect MOT. Isn,t the door supposed to open from the outside for emergencies or does it unlock below 4mph?

Had a leak from mine with nothing coming out underneath. Eventually found that water was leaking from the pump and lying on the muck plate and obviously evaporating. Changed pump and then ok. Shone a torch down the side of the top hose to see it.

I've used the repair kits a couple of times. Find they don't last very long. Still cheaper than a new starter tho.

Bad earth or starter contacts worn?

Or failing ball joint :eek:.

As my previous thread when I had a similar problem of having to yank the handle and the door not locking, I asked if the two were related, they weren't. Ok the lock was knackered but the yanking of the door was caused by the handle operating rod being too short. Adjusted it and it was fine...

Have oiled it. It will lock with the key fob and dash switch which suggests the lock actuator solenoid is working. Could there be a lever/link that has come adrift?

My front passenger outer door handle has progressively got more difficult to open to the extent that it now takes two or three sharp pulls to operate it. In addition the central locking will only lock on that side (unlocks manually from the inside) . Are these two problems related ?

No you can't repair it. Annoying really as it's usually just an oil seal between the revolving part of the hub and the main hub. Cost pence to replace if you could take it apart but you cant. :(