I have the early type heater controls with the sliders, my the slider that turns the heater on has stopped working, so no heat, it has been playing up for a while sometimes working some not, I am thinking rather than take the whole lot out bypass the switch and put another in its place. has...

It could be a duff switch, did you have at any time a problem running the fan, did it refuse to run then when you fiddle with the switch it worked, if not it could be a duff fan motor, if your pipes are warm that feed the heater then its circulating fine, firstly check the wiring going to the...

Take the engine out much easier , bonnet off pipes and wires off , rad out lift, do it in 5 hours easy on side of road with hoist, done it more than once

Circuit tester start car see what reading you get, should be around 13.8-14 volts if alternator working, try with lights on.

There are only a couple of places it could go, either from the slave into the bell housing, or it’s possible it’s leaking back into the footwell from the master cylinder, only other thing I can think of is a high pressure leak when you use the pedal, but again you would see the fluid.

Don’t give up mate; they are all frustrating at times, when you bleed the system it can be a pig to get all the air out, if you’ve got a one man bleed kit fill the master and give the pedal about 6 fast hard pumps then top up and try it you may need to give it a little more.

Fill the master cylinder, disconnect the feed pipe from the master cylinder, put your thumb over where the feed pipe goes in, to block the hole and get someone to gently push the pedal, if there is any air in there you can expel it this way, then reconnect the pipe and bleed from slave, trust...

Hi Tomo The fluid must have gone somewhere, are you sure you got all the air out it take quite a bit of fluid to fill new parts, the fluid can only go into the bell housing from that end and I'm sure you would see traces of it

Sounds like the thrust bearing has grit in it and probably in the clutch too, only way to get at it is either engine out or gearbox off, personally I find it easier to take the engine out. taking the engine out is not as bigger job as perhaps it sounds

Cheers for that

I could see the slave strain because it could push no further

This is the second clutch , the first clutch the same, but the pedal would only go 3/4 way down before it stopped dead, and clutch was not releasing fully but was traveling as far as it could

On the in voice is says STC8358B

Can this be right the thrust bearing has very little travel before it hits the plate

Cleans the system out that’s interesting, as I said I had no idea that is was as simple as putting it in your tank, thanks for the imfo

I wasn’t going to adjust anything I just naturally assumed that to use veggie oil you would need to adjust settings or something

I had no idea that you could use it without any adjustment

I was told by a chap over the weekend that he runs his 1995 disco on vegetable oil and has done for years, without any problems or any modification to his disco, he said in summer he runs it only on veggie oil and in winter if it’s really cold he will run it on half diesel half veg oil, he said...

do the damper first

Engine out today nothing wrong with thrust bearing or lever, clutch however Borg & Beck, when tightened the back plate springs where the thrust bearing pushes on there is only about an inch gap between the back plate springs and the clutch plate.