Not wanting to put the dampers on, it could also be that the head needed skimming, sometimes when the gasket blows depending on how long it has been blowing, it can damage the head surface. Or as said it could just be residue left over from the blown gasket, run it and see if it clears.

Could it be a pressure leak, perhaps a pipe with a pin prick hole that would not show until the engine pressurises enough to push the water out. I search for engine leaks with an ex flash/fabreeze bottle refilled with a mix of water and fairy liquid soon shows up a leak. I had a Mussolini’s...

Water pump is the more common problem bearing, alternator you change the whole thing just mater of couple of fixing bolts then semi deep pocket, timing belt pretensioner if that’s the problem I would be inclined to get timing belt kit and do the whole job, get a good kit or you will be back here...

Well yes they also make noises similar to yours and certainly worth a check, difficult to be certain where your noise is actually coming from not having car in front of me, but weighing up the evidence and the video sound I would as said go for a warn bearing either on the alternator/power...

. From listening to your vid I think it sounds to me like a baring grinding, could it be your alternator baring. to check take belt off and start engine

The fluid has to be going somewhere, so if you are not seeing it under the vehicle, it has to be inside around the plunger attached to the clutch pedal, you will find the carpet wet under the dash, if this is the case then master cylinder is suspect

Clutch fork is separate

Your right James seems this type of rip off is becoming more the norm, parts being supplied appear to be missing that Taiwan stamp.

The sager of this clutch I think is now solved, after removing the engine and inspecting lever, push rod, bearing, carrier, I did notice that the lever was binding when moving it manually. I removed the clutch from the engine the friction plate and pressure plate very dusty but then the clutch...

Lever is heavy duty and in good condition bearing looks fine too, the slave as far as I’m aware is correct and was renewed after the clutch also master cylinder, I suspected maybe the clutch pressure plate so returned the clutch for a replacement

When I offer up the lever and move it as if the slave was pushing it, the lever appears to move very little certainly not enough to fully release the clutch.

You are right James this disco does not have any adjustment to be had on the picot, I can’t remember where I have seen this I know I have, anyway this disco had a new borg & beck clutch fitted 6 months ago since that it has had all major clutch parts replaced because the clutch will not...

Well I’m about to pull the engine out and I know that this vehicle has a pivot inside fixed to the carrier and it is adjustable, I have also spoken to other mechanics who were very surprised to find that there is no mention of this adjustment, apart from the fact this part can be replaced...

The clutch lever sits on a pivot a sort of bolt if you like fixed inside the bell housing, allowing the lever to rock when the slave cylinder is activated by the clutch pedal, this pivot is screwed into the carrier and locked in place by a lock nut, by screwing this pivot out you will force...

There is no mention anywhere that I can!! For the clutch lever pivot setting, that is how much should it be screwed out and then locked into position , can anyone tell me please.:confused:

thank you

I have 200 tdi and it has a R380 gearbox instead of the LT77 original, is the clutch identical in both gearbox’s.

I use a hose pipe connected to the mains, connect up to the top heater pipe and push the water round with the hose, when all air or clear water comes out pull hose off and reconnect top hose quickly.

You can do this job I’m sure your more than capable, it’s pretty straight forward really and think of what you will save apart from the knowledge you will gain.

I'd bank on head gasket too