I recently had a TRW clutch master fail in 1,500 miles so I wouldn't discount it completely.

Same issue with my replacement tank 6 years ago. Needed to elongate the tank fitting holes to move it towards the rear of the vehicle by an extra half inch and also straighten the flange where the filler neck pokes through behind the seats. You can buy an aluminium tank but it's a few hundred...

Pretty sure I bought mine from either LR Series or Paddocks. Then again, it was about 6 years ago! Edit ....here you go. http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/492/306289-HARD-TOP-REAR-GLASS-SEAL-FILLER-STRIP.html?search=Seal%20filler%20strip&page=1

Sounds like air in the system or a master cylinder issue

When I last adjusted my brakes I nipped the adjuster up until the wheels couldn't be turned. I backed off 1 click initially but although the wheels could then be turned by hand ok, they seemed to get probably a little too warm when driving. Backed off a further click on the fronts. My shoes were...

The brake pedal is quite a bit lower than the clutch pedal. Might be easier to lower the floor than adjust the brake pedal height! :)

I have also found historically that lack of use encourages brake problems. I try to drive mine at least once every week even if it is only for a 3-4 mile run around the block. I think garaging it has also probably helped reduce leaking cylinder issues to some extent. The first press of the brake...

Had the same on mine just over a year ago. I had rebuilt all the hubs less than 2,000 miles previous so was surprised to find play. I had also replaced the wheel bearings with new Timken ones but it seemed they had settled and needed some play taking out on the driver's side one. Nice simple fix.

Seemed to go well enough from what I could tell in that video.

Perfect! Looks like a permanent fix to me. It takes a brave man to delve into the 'rats nest' that lies behind the dash in December. Those old wires are so inflexible in colder weather. The binnacle pulls forward 4 inches in the summer months and only two inches in the Winter, Safe journey...

Those crisp packets have improved over the years too. The inside of the packets are shiny silver these days and looks just like real metal. The MOT man would never know the difference. McCoys are the thickest grade material, galvanised I heard too.

The felt seals I fitted dry. A few years since I did those too.

I thought perhaps I was the only one who occasionally tasted drips to establish the source of leaks. Worst tasting is coolant mixture, secondly hydraulic fluid. Have to say, oil is my favourite of the three.

I've never used sealant on the hub cap itself. It's an interference fit (tap on with a mallet) and I just smear the inside of the cap with grease and a generous smear on the hub nut and split pin.

As far as the steering goes, you quickly learn that you don't apply lock unless you're actually moving. I very rarely try to turn the wheels unless there is physical forward or backward motion. The lack of steering lock can easily catch you out, particularly in car parks etc.

I would add an overdrive to it. Simple solution.

I read on FB that this one was found in Reading and recovered.

Yep, just sack the girlfriend (by text of course because that's apparently the way to roll nowadays). It's close to Christmas now anyway so you could save some money by not having to buy her a present. You could then use that money to sort the heater issue and tell her what you've done with what...

I would also just use it as a doner vehicle. You've effectively bought a nice galvanised chassis and some decent parts. It's lost it's history and true identity and I can't see how you're going to change the wheelbase on the reg document without opening a can of worms. The vehicle essentially...

All the very late S3 models seem to have deluxe bonnets. I wonder if the very later ones had the deluxe as standard? I would imagine after a certain point (say late 70's) it was cheaper just to make one kind of bonnet?