Yes, the bulb is the obvious starting point.

Fix your charging lamp. The alternator needs this as a sort of kick start to get the alternator to begin charging. Sometimes, the residual magnetism in the rotor is enough to start the alternator charging when the lamp fails, sometimes, it isn't. Fixing your lamp should not cost much, and...

That's not the shaft which drives the oil pump, it's the quill shaft which drives the injector pump. There's another one between the skew gear you can see in the engine block and the pump in the sump.

I would look at the relief valve and more likely, the drive from the distributor drive gear (which must be turning!) down to the oil pump. There's a quill shaft, and the teeth at either end, or, the internal teeth on drive gear or driven gear can wear, stopping the oil pump. I don't think this...

I've always just jiggled the prop by hand and watched the joints to check them. If there's a bearing going tight, you have to drop the prop off to allow the joint to move freely to feel the tightness - but tight joints give rumbling noises when running rather than clunks. If the sliding joint...

I've used Champion RN1\1YC4 plugs in mine, and it currently has Bosch WR7DC plugs fitted. Both work well. I don't know the CR of my engine for sure. It has the raised boss on top of the cylinder head, but, I haven't found an eight marked on there. The compressions are all 145 psi - good for...

This is all a bit confused. Tons aren't a unit of pressure, nor are they a measure of kinetic energy. Here's another way to look at it. Assuming 2 tons of force, i.e. 20,000 N, this would give a Cd x A product of about 33, which is beyond plausible. An ordinary car might have a Cd x A...

Are there any published data on drag, frontal area, rolling resistance and so on for Land Rovers? 2 tons sounds a bit high to me. If it were true, dipping the clutch at 70 mph would mean the car would slow down as if it were an extreme emergency stop. Are you sure about the units of measurment?

It's much easier to fit the later type of seal which fixes to the vent flap using self adhesive.

It's also worth checking that; - some halfwit hasn't over adjusted the sterring box in a vain attempt to remove play [cost = zero] - that there's oil in the steering box, steering relay, and steering swivels [cost = negligible] - that the steering swivels have the right preload [cost =...

Have you tried the suggestion of using a test lamp instead of a multimeter? As mentioned earlier in the thread, it's very likely to be a bad connection anywhere between the switch and the back of the vehicle - look on the wiring diagram to identify the connectors.

Your multimeter isn't helping you. It doesn't draw much current when measuring voltage, and doesn't load the circuit up. It will have you running round in circles. Far better to use a spare bulb holder, and make a test lamp using a 12V 21W bulb. Put a crocodile clip on one wire to clamp to...

No, you don't need to cut the tube. Originally, there would have been a gauze there - it's just rotted or vibrated itself to bits over the years, and disappeared. If you look carefully at your pick up tube, you'll probably find a "collar" where the old solder was, holding the top of the...

There are some gauzes for sale now - ebay item 132576973813 I have no connection with the seller, otrher than as a customer

There were some replacement gauzes for the pick up pipe reasonably priced on Ebay recently - you solder it onto the end of the pipe. New pick up pipes are silly money. Is there a gauze above the seal ring on the sediment bowl?

There "should" also be a gauze on the end of the fuel pick up pipe in the tank, and another above the seal in the fuel sediment bowl by the pump - for so much grot to end up at the carb there's a problem upstream - or the fuel pipe itself is rotting from the inside.

That looks like the wrong cap - it looks like it's off a lucas 45d4 distributor

If the carb is a Weber, there's a gauze filter in the fuel inlet, between the inlet pipe and the float valve, you can get to it via a large screw cap under the fuel inlet area of the carb. If that were blocked, that could explain the dry float chamber symptoms.

>>1 Forgive my ignorance but how do I measure voltage at the alternator, not a lot of room to be poking probes and where do I poke them? The wiring connector comes apart, you can take the back cover off it, and reach the terminals there. You'll find 2 big terminals [brown wires], and a smaller...

The large Lucar connectors on the alternator electrical plug can make a bad contact. These are live all the time, so, if you're going to poke about in that connector, it's best to disconnect the battery first. Does the charge warning lamp work correctly?, i.e., does it come on with the...