If I were to run early 10spline diff and shafts in my 90 and used the shafts with no flange on the inside. Would it be acceptable for the oil to lube the bearings instead of the grease. It seems early 10 spline shafts with the flange is getting a bit awkward to source and everyone has cheap...

Ooo just noticed you said shouldn't... No idea why it does come on but it's annoying as hell. Could it be the solenoid? Running out of ideas

Yes at idle. Oil level correct so I can't fathum why the pressure would be so low.

For the past year or so my 90 has decided to pop the oil warning light on when its really warm, ie off roading and had some hammer. I thought that this was due to the engine that was in it having either a slipped cam bearing or worn piston rings (used to blow a lot through the cyclone breather...

I'd assume your running a 1.4 transfer box so you'll be looking for a 1.2 which will give you better motor way cruising but slower at pulling off and you may feel the need to drop it down from 4th to 5th on hill climbs however with the td5 engine I think you'll manage quite easily with the power...

Fuel return pipes are ****e even new imo I replaced mine and they still dripped so I used tiny tie wraps on them and had no trouble since

I've never seen a prop with slack in the slider... How are the ujs? I've always thought clunking on full lock is a cv on its way out? Sorry I'm not much help with the Salisbury side I never had to adjust mine.

Yeh I used longer bolts into the block after removing the flywheel housing

Engine hoist then on. Or in my case when I did mine. Jack it up in the most dangerous way possible with a strap to hold it straight and nearly crush ya mate when u try n flop it on

How on earth do you do it...? All I have mustered today is to eat drink and sleep!

I thought that the reason they start to go slower is down to worn rings losing compression ect so why would an engine with new shells and rings be slower? Mine has had new rings and shells ect and fires up instantly

I would have thought lack of power on an engine with new rings and shells ect would be something different than putting it down to high milage surely? Even has a new crank.

park it on the road. job done, consider the oil top ups as a regular service.

Lad who owned this box says he thinks he was in diff lock but it had low oil so the more I look into it on the web the more I think it's friction welded. Will they we welded solid and duff or can they be split

Was years ago Paul when I came green laning with you and dave ect mate lol I only use rear locker with cdl on

Good to hear! Always a nice feeling when they crack up after being off for so long

Same. Unless it's worse than I actually expected ie boggy water in ruts but usually drop it in and out as I'm driving. Never realised how much traction you lose until I fitted my arb in the rear. Two dales for example. Real good Lane can crawl up it even in the wet and think you didn't slip at...

Engine mounts. Gearbox tunnel unless keeping the lt77 if swapping for r380 gearbox then maybe props unless standard position so would need seat box as well as tunnel. Nothing that can't be done.

Regarding that box of my mates yea you can see the collar and move it freely I believe he has welded the planetary gears inside by spinning up without it engaged. This is what I do. Drive around off road in low, grass mud ect and as I hit something n feel a little too much loss of momentum or...

As I do. However I recall a conversation with Paul d a couple of years ago saying he leaves his in whilst green laning. Where as I know I won't be spinning up and struggling without diff lock in so I leave it out. I'll only use it when I think I'll struggle to get through without it. Saying that...