This one you can drive. It’s probably every 3rd time that it stalls out. I had a look around, injector pump very clean. No signs of injectors leaking etc. Should mention the vibration at idle is intermittent. when idling it was possibly the smoothest diesel p38 I’ve heard It’s very well...

Hello all I’m not unfamilar to owning a P38. I in fact owned a terrible one two years ago nearly. Anyway I’ve got the bug and I want another. there’s one local to me. Elderly couple, owned for 10+ years. All the device history etc you’d expect for people who have cared and not scrimped...

Hello all. looking for a bit of help. A friend has recently got 110 TD5 with about 100k on the clock. On idle it sounds really smooth. Zero issues. Likewise when you are driving it’s also really smooth and no issues. However when the RPMs raise to just above idle there’s a horrible...

Can I check for black dust?

It’s almost like a shake. It shakes the whole car It seems to be whenever you are one gear up 28-30mph in 4th for example. With not much throttle action whenever it’s under load from the engine it seems okay although I physically cannot go under 30 in 4th. I don’t usually drive this way...

no rattle or noise rolling along in neutral. It’s on the road. The prime example is when you are in a slightly high gear being light on the peddle Not in low range. I’ve only used low twice to get out of a field.

More update and questions after having run the car for 1000miles. so there’s no vibration or rattle at idle. Or when pulling away from stationary However if pulling away rolling I can get a shake or heavy vibration. If I don’t load up the clutch straight away This also happens for example...

Easy mate. You mentioned selling your powerbox

yeah they are crazy expensive!

Of the DMF is that? I believe it’s just a replacement job, or as Datatek stated get a solid one made

I agree a nice one is up in value. Mines solid chassis wise and interior. But the body’s fairly rough. If yours is the blue one it looks pretty nice. how much would you want for the box?

What’s that for the DMF?

It’s not too bad a job. Possible with you three mates and some jacks. Only reason I got a new engine swapped in with the clutch flywheel unit was because my Timing chains were gone and It was more convenient to leave the car at the garage instead of hauling the block 200miles home! I’d do it...

Manual is DMF. Autos have flex plates which I believe can also sometimes go bad

I’m really hoping so. The experience with the garage was 100% positive. Family run, seem to have a very loyal customer base. Very much enthusiast run. I’m hoping that we will be able to work something out. If it had been a few thousand miles I’d of been thinking fair play just one of those...

I’ve got to get my Chevy back on the road. At least I can justify the money on that!

I think I’m at the point now looking at realistic projected spending and condition of the car. That if some deal isn’t made with the specialist to put this right when I ring up tomorrow. That it’s just getting driven until it’s scrap.

Evidently. And I understand it’s my job to be informed. Just slightly miffed I was assured by a well established specialist that it was solid

where can you even get a solid flywheel? I’ve never seen one for sale

the one installed on with the new engine was on 100k and the clutch on 5k. Assured by them it was a solid unit. honestly on any other car or my 65” Chevy I would spend the money. But on a car that’s never worth more than a grand it’s hard to justify a £900 flywheel