Don't think the switch is the problem if one bulb is working. You could try a temp earth lead. Run a wire to the -ve battery terminal and touch the other end to the earths on the bulb. If the bulb works then you have a bad earth. If you put a bulb in series with the same wire, you can use it to...

Because there is a live feed on the wrong side of the fuse. At least it means you won't blow a fuse when you get a short. Might catch fire though, so it's swings and roundabouts really.

I have no knowledge of freelanders (as you may be able to tell) but on other motors you can pull the plugs then connect them across a battery to check that they get redhot. (If you try that, do not hold them by the hot end)

Could it just be glow plugs? Don't if there's a warning light for failure but the light on the dash normally just means a supply is going to the plugs, not that the plugs are actually working.

I have found references to variable case hardening in early td5 engines. So if there's no smoke or noises possibly you could replace cam, followers etc. But I'd still worry where all those picked up bits of metal went. You really, really need to get an opinion from someone who knows td5s. There...

That looks awful like it's been run on door hinge grade oil. Don't know the td5 innards but if the cam looks like that, I'd expect the big ends and bores to look awful as well. Does it smoke or rattle? There's that much wear, I wouldn't be surprised the valve lift/timing affected the running...

If it's like panel prep, just wait until it's dry which may take longer than you think in the corners. Have you got some tack cloth as well?

I use a gasket and three bond semi setting stuff. Even using hylomar, it should seal if the surface is clean. Has it been over tightened and distorted round the holes at some point? Is it definitely the sump and not where it meets the timing chest or rear bearing?

If you will pardon me inserting myself, but is it timed on tdc or exhaust peak? 12j engines are on exhaust peak which you can get even without flywheel marks by using a dti on the exhaust valve of cylinder 1.

Think that's very important. If you're an euthusiastic sort of chap, it's very easy to get caught up in the moment and gloss over big issues.

Algon. Don't put too much on galvanised bits.

Annoying isn't it. I rebuilt mine because it was jumping out of reverse. Fixed the reverse but started jumped out of second. So had to have another go. Well done for sorting it in the end though.

You should be alright if it was really built in 1997 because the sva was introduced in 1998. This is quite a good explanation.... http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/vosalaw.htm

As above, it's going to be firmer than a car but it shouldn't be a problem unless you're in stop start traffic a lot. Have you usually got a dodgy knee? If the cylinders are not stiff and the pedal moves freely, then that's as good as the clutch gets. You could sleeve the master or get smaller...

You don't need door tops. http://www.exmoortrim.co.uk/88-109-inch-bikini-hood.html

If it was ok and now it's not then something is wrong. Why not just check the alternator output to eliminate it from your enquiries? If I understood your post, it was bad when cold but ok when hot. So that could be plugs (or battery). It's quite easy to take the plugs out and put them accross a...

^ what he said.

Only definite thing is baulk rings and gaskets and the 3/4 synchro springs. Probably wise is bearings. But everything else you need to inspect and/or measure otherwise you'll spend a fortune.

Quiksteel in the cracks and new head gasket. Then sell it. (Probably best not to use the for sale sub forum on here now the cat is out of the bag)

Depends what's wrong. If you take the head off and there is evidence of a blow then the headgasket should make it good to go. Assuming it's flat. If there's no blow then maybe the valves are blowing. As you're taking it off, it might be a good idea the touch up the head anyway