Good thinking Nick, I never remember about that...

Item three is the electrical device fitted to the choke cable to switch on the choke warning light, that is the choke cable isn't it? Black wires are, I'm sure you know, earth wires. As to the blue-green, you will have to try and trace it back to where it came from. If everything works, it...

You will only have to move it by a tiny amount. If you put some paint around the washers on the pump pulley, when you move it you will be able to see by how much; 1 - 1.5mm is plenty. You might notice slightly more mechanical noise when you advance it but it is unnaturally quiet if too retarded...

At the rear place them just in front of the front of rear spring hanger outriggers. Hopefully you have stands with a good wide base, those little DIY ones are pretty unstable.

I've done this conversion too and I had the same symptoms which were caused by slightly retarded pump timing. This happened because with the engine fitted in a series the crossmember under the flywheel blocks access for the TDC tool, so I had to set it up by eye as best I could. It ran fine but...

Still groaning with new oil added? Agree with Tottot; you may just have to suck it and see...

Just the job! Thanks. Maybe I can reinstate my hazard switch as it is working through the normal flasher unit and is a bit too fast.

Where do you get them?

I usually go with Delphi Lockheed. Britpart cylinders have an evil reputation, I suppose you have to be lucky and not get some from a duff batch. BP shoes however seem to be ok.

Hi Claire, I can't offer any recommendations in your area as I'm rather far away in Leicestershire but as an ex-mechanic I can pass on some advice: Try to find a small, village garage with older mechanics; a business that has been in the same place for many years and has survived by doing good...

Another vote for a sheared halfshaft here.

The handle looks a little like a truncheon, a simple job to make one with a wood lathe or you could just use a bit of broom handle. 12" to 14" long approx.

Never bothered to work it out by thread pitch or flats on the nuts, I just do it by trial: if it is too tight, or not tight enough, (I mean end-float), I adjust the inner nut accordingly until I have about 1/16" play at the wheel rim with both nuts locked. Regarding torque: all we are aiming to...

It's a nice idea Huddy but there isn't a torque figure given for the hub nuts as far as I know...?

Get the damn box spanner, it's only a few quid. Your biggest problem is getting the end-float right, there's no mystery to it, it's a matter of trial and error. Get a few lock washers for stock and I would advise you to get a few hub oil seals to put by as well.

Even modern cars are far from dimensionally perfect, that is why nowadays tracking is checked comparing front and rear. The reason being that the front and rear axles, (for want of a better way to describe the pairs of wheels) are sometimes not parallel to each other. Don't expect a Land Rover...

You can't expect accurate results by measuring from bulkhead or outriggers. All those parts can be fitted skewed or welded on in the wrong place. Very little of the bodywork on a Land Rover is perfectly placed. Do as Rattlegun suggests and measure between front to rear wheel centres.

A jig of some sort would be indispensable, also lots of measurements written down. Have the vehicle up on axle stands on a level stretch of floor. Before you cut the old chassis parts off, use a plumb bob to drop a line down to the floor at the front spring eye and mark the floor. Measure the...

So... what do you think was the problem?

Back to basics then: check for a spark and that there is fuel. Two easy methods: for the spark, take off the distributor cap, make sure the points are closed. Switch on the ignition then flick the points open, there should be a spark. For the fuel: look down into the venturi of the carb and work...