The height sensors are all 5v, so they'll plug straight into the analogue inputs on an Arduino (the uno has 5 of them). The valves & compressor relays require 12v to switch them on, so you need some sort of optoisolater or a current sensor to monitor those. My main blocker at the moment is...

Sure, it's a raspberry pi for the brains connected to an Arduino Uno for the inputs / outputs. I'm using node-red on the pi to read the various inputs and display the dashboard. And that's pretty much it so far! I've had to put it on the back burner for now while I sort other issues.

Yeah, I've got a working original unit now, so less pressure to get something working on the pi..... first step will just be to monitor what the original unit does, so logging all the sensors and valves whenever they change so I can see what's triggering what and putting it on a smaller screen...

It runs on a raspberry pi, and I have the standard touchscreen plugged into it..... but you could connect to it from any device with a browser :)

I replaced my knackered cones with a pair of these: Seem to work fine. edit: They're cheap as chips from the US amazon site, and don't take too long to arrive :)

Ah, thanks everyone, I've managed to get a day (christmas eve) where I can spend some time on the car, so first will be the ABS sensor then I'll try Jump starting my door :)

Here's the current state of play. Not hooked up to the car in this picture (it's dark and cold out there) so the dials are just showing the 'floating' analogue inputs: https://photos.app.goo.gl/NCMyrLhbyj3mYMfX9

I might take you up on that if I can't fix it by wiggling the Sensor about, ta very much!

Is it possible to get the door card off with the door shut? (I'm not near the car at the moment so can't check myself!)

Great, I guess this and the ABS light are my priorities then..... I can access the door from the inside of the vehicle (by scooting across) and I can get the window down, so any methods of opening the door that require either / both of those gratefully received.

As title really. The lock mechanism on that door doesn't move when you lock / unlock the car so I'm guessing it's knackered. Couple of questions: Does anyone know if the door not opening is an MOT fail? Mine is due in January, just wondering if I need to prioritise fixing it. Any tips on...

Update: Replaced the ECU with one off Ebay, and suspension works fine now. All the heights seem there or there abouts, not tried plugging into it yet with the unlock suite. The homemade ECU is also going pretty well, got a nice dashboard with the readings from the height sensors, the...

Thanks Wammers. How would I switch TC off? I haven't done it on purpose, just wondering if something I've done might have switched it off. All 3 lamps come on when the car is turned on, and then stay on. 'ABS fault' comes on the dash with a bleep when I start the car, but doesn't stay on...

Brilliant, thanks Marty, exactly the information I was after. I'll have a look at the sensors this weekend and see if anything is obviously wrong / reseat them. MOT is due mid January (first one since owning the car) so if there's not an obviously broken sensor down there I might have to bite...

All 3 are remaining lit for at least an hour (that's the furthest I've driven recently) at a variety of speeds. Could a dodgy sensor result in all 3 remaining lit or would it just be the ABS light? For context, everything was working fine, then I changed the shocks. Everything remained fine...

As subject, I had a fault in my ABS (the accumulator had gone). I've fixed the fault, and the brakes work fine now, but the lights are still on (all 3 on the dash, the ABS, exclamation and the TC light). Is this one of those faults I need to plug in a faultmate / nanocom in to read and clear...

Thanks Marty, I had seen reference to a connector in the kick panel but I hadn't taken the time to look in Rave to see exactly what runs through there. Entirely my fault, I'll take a look at that connector as soon as I get chance. Noted on the OBD! The replacement ECU idea is more about...

I didn't rewire anything, I plugged 3 wires from the serial cable directly into the ecu rather than going through the ODB port. Until I did that, I didn't have the 'long list of contradictory faults' to prove bad comms, all I had was 'PP' which could mean anything from wrong serial port to...

Okay, given that: I get a long list of faults back I know the compressor, valve pack etc work (I can operate the system by connecting the various pins on the ECU connector) I suspect the delay relay is knackered. Thanks for the helpful response @pwood999, I'd already ordered a new delay relay...

Yeah, the switch on the dash uses some sort of bit level shifting to work out which lamps to operate, I found a website a couple of days ago which had some details about a guy who was building his own software for the ECU (i think that's the one you mentioned as well) but struggling to find it...