I've got an early type TD5 and the agricultural charm has worn off over the past 6 years and I'm kind of trying to make it just feel like a nicer vehicle. One thing I can't figure out is how crappy the doors are. Somehow they feel and sound worse than vehicles produced in the 70s. When I close...

You can test the MAF sensor by unplugging it. After starting it should run funny for a few seconds before the ECU realises it isn't there and should then run okay.

My kit had 1.1 square metres in it and I had some left over after doing the roof and the bulkhead. I would have used more but I had carpet down. You don't need as much of it as you see people using on YouTube. You don't use it to create some kind of soundproof barrier, you use it to stop flat...

So it’s a faulty switch then? Weird way of doing it considering pretty much every other switch is a toggle. I don’t normally need the fog lamp usually but when I need it I really need it.

I was about to post this same issue. I have an early type TD5 so from roughly the same era. At this time were they in the process of changing to a new type of switch or something? How is this considered okay? It’s bizarre. Do earlier 300TDIs have a different switch, or maybe later TD5s?

Mine's black. There's a larger yellow one next to it but I forget what it's for. The LR one is £50, for a cheapo relay that's made in China probably worth about £5.

So I'm trying to replace the glow plug relay in my 10P TD5. I've seen Britpart ones for £15-£20 or OEM ones for £50. I felt like this is one of those things where you're paying an LR premium, even on the non-branded stuff. Googling around it looks like the whole thing is pretty generic. The code...

Yeah. Sorry to not say thanks but I did read your reply and took it on board. I ran a cable from the negative to the chassis but I didn’t have enough cable to get all that way and only had one short earth strap that I was recycling so I needed to find where the actual problems had cropped up and...

Thanks mystery, after looking at that installation document I'm assuming that it's not some weird non-existant tachometer issue. So late last night I found that the resistance between the battery negative and the ECU earth point was around 2 ohms. I had a quick Google and it says that I should...

I’ve cleaned up the chassis earth that’s along the earth strap connected to the gearbox/transfer box. This made a big difference and the temp gauge went up about a quarter of a way after about 5/10 minutes of driving. But for some reason it’s still being affected by the clutch. I watched it a...

I’d ruled out a bad earth as I’d checked the continuity but now I’m thinking it may be a poor contact somewhere. I only have a couple of crocodile clips electronics type cables lying around so I ran them between the battery clamp and the negative and the needle immediately jumped up a little...

I’ll consider buying the other gauge but I’d rather try and fix this one first. I always wonder if fixing one electrical issue may fix other problems I haven’t yet noticed. How exactly does it the gauge work? It looks like it has a live and a ground, then anofher route to ground through the ECU...

I know there’s loads of threads posted about faulty temperature gauges, well now it’s my turn. I’ve read all the other ones and I’m not finding many that seem similar to my problem and they don’t really have conclusions. My gauge sits at the bottom end and only moves up slightly after driving...

So I was half way through a five hour drive yesterday when I noticed a sort of grinding noise coming from around the serpentine belt area. It only happens when idling and goes away when the revs pick up a bit. I’ve got the return trip to do today and I’m wondering if anyone knows if I’m in...

Thanks Mystery, I didn’t spot that but it I’ll do that test before I put my new fuselink in. I’m updating this as I think I’ve found the problem, I know I mentioned the horn but I hadn’t actually clocked that the 100amp fuselink was part of the circuit. I’d changed the cylinder head a few months...

Thanks for the reply, sorry I missed it. I’m still waiting for my next fuse to arrive so I can’t test it right now. All I can say is that when the ignition is off or when I’m the relay is pulled I’m measuring about 0.1 volts across the fuse. When it’s on I measure about 16 volts. I can find a...

I haven’t got any way of checking the amps until tomorrow but I took the relay out and tested it. It was definitely stuck open so I gave it a tactical whack against the seat box and it fixed it. I opened it up and gave it a good blast with contact cleaner and it seemed to be nicely freed up. I...

Sorry, I only just noticed this message. It does look different to the other diagram, does it just have more detail then? It’s the 100amp fuse under the drivers seat, it’s labelled as being for the glow plugs in the little diagram under the lid. First thing I’m gonna do when I get home is test...

Thanks, been looking back at that diagram and I think I have a relay that’s stuck closed and a bad earth between the fuse box and the relay. I guess I’ve got a fun Friday night ahead of me.

Thanks. So I’m checking between brown and yellow. I’ll do it tonight.