Yer, I got one, just a bit short on time to remove it from the disco... :( Are you in a hurry?!

I've found this problem on a long feeble extension cable - trying to weld at 180a and it was just not up to it at all - changed location to be closer to the socket and the problem goes away, welds improve and start penetrating again! I'd also be on .8 wire if I were you, but you could use .6...

Jenolite used to be very good, but has either changed for H&S reasons or has been overtaken by better products. Kurust isn't up to much either. Fertan is VERY good and and I use a lot of it. The box section sills I put on my disco were externally treated with only fertan about 4 years ago and...

It would be worth talking to the supplier and get their take on it, but this should be an interesting thread :)

Nice! Those tyres look good :)

sorry I was referring to the drain in the rear arch that has been covered over with flash band on Steve's disco. I've got the same crossmember rot to weld up on my 96 D1 too, though my boot floor is good so I'll just slice up the rear bulkhead for access

I spose if that's on top of sound paint, then ok, , I'd just worry about all the exposed edges making gaps/opportunity to store water. I guess if it was covered in a coat of Shultz then that would cover that base off nicely... How long has it been on there? Does the sunroof drain exit somewhere...

Hmm... I'm thinking water trap! I think I'd rather go for decent zinc etch primer, then epoxy mastic and stone chip etc. But each to thier own!

WTF is all that - flashband?

The rust doesn't need holes if it's already in there - hence why it all needs removing or at least treating. There's no point in putting virgin steel over a patch of rust and sealing it all up with weld is there? It's a good job so far though, yes... Chris, is your mig up to 3mm plate? Only...

It's not for prettyness steve - the whole point is to remove as much rust as possible to stop it coming back worse.

Nah, do it properly - you'll only be doing it again in a year or two otherwise! Cut it back, rust treat, glue in some new stuff and go to twon on the rot prevention with fertan, bonda and dynax etc...

The air goes into the rifle in bulk and is metered out every shot. The 8 shot part is the magazine. Because there's no heavy spring and piston flying forward upon firing, there's no kick (recoil) only a very slight feeling of the pellet leaving and the bit of air pushing the rifle back slightly...

In that last pic of your first post, is that the brake disc I can see poking out?! If so that's some monster offset!

Ahh... That's not bad! What's the worst bit? When my D1 had its first mot under my new ownership the tester went to town with most of an aerosol can of yellow paint as that was easier than writing up all of the corrosion! Then I had the usual two weeks to work through my comprehensive 'failure...

Wow that's a real looker, you must be very proud! Very nice work indeed - is there a build thread anywhere?

Nope, not anymore - GL5 additives are yellow metal safe as the additive pack was changed little while after this issue was recognised.

IRD? Irritating Rectal Discharge?

another warped manifold! That's a bit crap... How many is that now?

Those Coleman event shelters are ok, but a lot of money for what they are. They started off quite cheap a few years ago when they were testing the water, then the price went up the following year and carried on. They're easier to erect with two, and are quite big when packed away, so might not...