The bulkhead hasn’t been unbolted so it’s in it’s original position. The tub was off and refurbished as well as the rear cross member but everything was solidly jigged before removal. The tub is tight against the rear cross member. I’m pretty sure it’s all mostly straight. I have read that once...

Update: After time away from it, I was back on the case today with the doors and seals. I fitted the door striker as was suggested and pushed the latch assembly slightly in the hinge direction to clear the tub. After that I still got the mismatch at the rear edge of the door as pictured. You can...

Hmm, cheap for a reason? Buy cheap, buy twice? I don’t know but it has got me thinking that before I continue with the rebuild, should I consider an auxillary heater? It would be a nice to have but is it needed in a truck-cab? By the time mine is on the road it will be Winter 2019 before I know...

I bought 3/16” originally having been told they were the right size but they dropped into the cylinder too deep. Bear in mind 3/16” = 4.76mm, not 5mm. The 5mm ones worked perfect for me in my locks but this is Land Rover so it may not be the same across the board!

I haven’t had a chance to get back on the case...so you can’t call me Susan just yet!

Capo, sorry, I’ve only just seen your thread. You need 5mm diameter ball bearings, not 3/16” as I found out. Two per barrel with lots of grease packed in. Then assemble the rear part with the thread in until it seats solidly, then the tab washer and bolt. Don’t forget to bend the tab washer to...

Fair comment; I’ll fit the strikers and try it but I know it will be a mile off. You can call me Susan if it isn’t so

The inner foam thing is where my problem lies. I guess it’s in there to prevent the seal from creasing/semi collapsing as it follows the contour of the body but crikey, it’s such a hard foam and makes the area of the seal it’s in feel solid compared to the rest of the seal. What a crazy idea! I...

It’s not just me then: http://www.defendersource.com/forum/f6/puma-door-seals-116529.html

Not at the moment...I thought it didn't need one having seen so many threads about door misalignment / closing issues. I'll get one next time I'm there.

I’m trying to fit the doors at the moment and took the advice about buying genuine LR door seals. What I’ve noticed about them is that where they follow the tight curve of the panel (where the panel curves out about bottom window height) on the b-pillar, they contain an inner foam type material...

Great, thanks for the pic. I assume that routes through the bulkhead grometts and into the dash area. I think that’s how I’ll do it although my sleeving is already routed out the bottom of the mirror arm. Thanks very much for that sir!

Aha! Good man! This could be the answer to my problem. I can’t make out where your wires go from the mirror arm. Can you elaborate please?

I know Mick, I know. Don’t remind me! They do look and feel superb quality items though and I do like good quality stuff. That’s why I don’t want to put a mark on them.

Thanks for the suggestion. I’ll have to take another look at the hinge to mirror clearances when I’m next working on it to see if something is do-able.

Nice idea but the bolts are only M6 plus it’s so tight for room. I’ll think that through some more though. Thanks.

I really don’t want to touch the hinges tbh...they’re such quality items I can’t bring myself to put a mark on them.

You’re right, I need to rephrase what I meant. Mudstuff route the wire into a hole in the door between the two hinge bolt holes. The standard hinges are concave underneath which allow the wire to squeeze under the gap and then out through that hole. Optimill hinges are solid with no gaps...

I bit the bullet and treated the ‘PIA’ to some Optimill door hinges; beautifully machined gems they are too! Anyway, I decided to get the Mudstuff heated mirror elements and today I came to fitting one of the doors and to fit the heated mirrors, trouble is I’m expected to take a drill to the...

Yeah it looks like I’ll have to do the same. Did you put any lube on the rubber seal?