Must remember to remove the old steering relay (probably need to cut it out), before taking the rest of it in, just in case I feel brave enough to have a got at trying to refurb it at some point in the future.

This is the outside of the right front corner. Am I correct in understanding this is where the chassis number is supposed to be?

Ok, thanks for the replies, chaps. I was intending to put it on/on the Landy to deliver. For a tenner....probably still worth taking it in, I suppose. I really had no idea what it was likely to be worth. Got a few other bits (brake drums (discs?!), odd brackets) and lots of old nuts/bolts. Do...

Those of you that have rebuilt or swapped a Landy chassis...what did you do with the old one? I've cut mine up into a few pieces, which I hope the DVLA agrees has put it out of use. Do I just take it to the local recycling centre, or if there sufficient metal here that it's worth finding a...

You *might* have a problem matching the sender to the gauge - there was a thread here a while ago about someone who was struggling to get a new sender to give sensible readings on their original gauge. I managed to get my original sender apart and gave it a good clean up and rebuild before...

Fair comments, but my point still stands that just because your engine is idling nice and smoothly, it doesn't necessarily mean the rev counter/meter is inaccurate. They can idle quite well at very low speeds. And if it's really too low, it may well resonate with the vehicle and make things...

Not entirely sure I agree with that. Most rpm meters aren't *that* inaccurate. But with a lazy/heavy engine like the Landy, idle speed isn't really that much of an issue, anyway. The only reason to have a higher idle speed is to ensure the engine doesn't stall. If it's running smoothly enough at...

@Colthebrummie It's worth noting that the wire to the sender isn't a 'supply', but is the signal going back to the gauge, indicating the fuel level. The sender is simply a lot of turns of wire, making up a variable resistor to ground, and the voltage you see there will depend on the fuel level...

Sounds familiar...makes a simple job take a lot longer than it should. But as @Blackburn says, if you're going for a speed record, that's the kind of thing you need to resolve before you start the timer.

In that case, yes, probably time to bite the bullet. And that's not a bad deal. I think I paid £50 for mine in ebay.

You might get away with it, but you will need to be careful and use short screws. But as you said, nothing to lose...?

True, but beware of the head of the screws. On the 'proper' deep hinge (that @dag019 posted and the parts catalogue diagram), you'll notice there's a cutaway between the hinge pin and the mounting holes. The head of the mirror screws will fit in that recess. Your hinges are a lot flatter, and...

Before you assume it's dead... ...you realise you need to provide 12V or so to the field coil to energise it, in order to get the alternator to provide any output, don't you? Once it's running, the power it generates can energise the coils itself, but it needs that little 'jump start' to get it...

That's impressive. But also kinda depressing that it took me as long as it did! I did take take it down to it's component pieces, however, and replaced nearly all the nuts and bolts on it. I wonder if they had as many seized nuts to deal with as I did! Curious removing the bulkhead with the...

Someone on here determined that when in motion, the air inlet on the side of an S3 is actually in a low pressure area, so the fan is sucking from a partial vacuum. Their solution was to run some ducting down to the front of the vehicle (inside the engine bay!) and T it into the supply from the...

Just a thought...you're not assuming all the green striped wires need to go to earth, are you? Black is earth on a Landy... The green wires will be the indicator and stop light 12V supplies, and you really don't want to be earthing those, and you'll short out the lights, and blow a fuse if...

Sorry. I've looked again, and I don't see 4 black wires...actually, I'm not sure I see any black wires at all. Which are the ones you think are earth?

OK, that's not quite so bad, but you really want to avoid having connectors where they will get wet and muddy, so would be better taking the wires up through the top of the wheel arch (through grommeted holes, of course) and connecting everything up in there. But you may not have a lot of...

On my S3, the resistor for 'low' speed is a small coil of resistance wire, mounted in the top of the heater matrix box, just inside the air inlet. Not a bad idea, and it ensures there's a flow of air over the coil to cool it, when the fan is on...

Hmmm. It's taken me about 2 years! I have cleaned/repaired/repainted/rebuilt most of the parts in the process, however. MoT test next week...