A quick search revealed a 2013 post. There's a large circlip apparently. I'll see to it once home. Getting the 4 bolts off is going to be a bit of a headache. There's enough room for a ring spanner on one of the bolts and that came undone without too much trouble. The rest can only be undone...

Damn that sounds scary! I'm going to try to take mine apart this evening. Incidentally, how does one go about that? I can see that there are 4 bolts on the exhaust side (I'm going to heat them up) but that's all I can see. How is the intake side dismantled?

I seem to have blown my turbo. A quick visit to my local indy confirmed it. Can anyone suggest a good supplier for a replacement? My local mechanic suggested NKK turbos but their website no longer exists. I need to have it couriered to Malta.

Yes it will be fine. They're not fussy and API SL/CL-4 in 15W40 is more than good enough for older Land Rover engines.

That's what I do too. Easy-peasy and dirt cheap.

My fingers hurt just seeing these pictures. It's been 7 years since I did mine. The video made it look sooooo easy.

easy-peasy. 3-4 hours tops.

First of all, you have a Defender not a Panzer tank. Getting stuck is to be expected. Never venture offroad alone. Secondly, as neilly here said, engage difflock BEFORE you get stuck not when you get stuck. As soon as you hit rough ground, engage difflock. Otherwise you'll end up with 1...

Yes that's correct. If you want to remove the brake discs from the hubs, you need a 12-point 14mm.

It's not a difficult job by any means. Watch the videos as others have told you. Watch them a few times so as to get really familiar with them. Better still, if you can watch them while doing the job, it'll be doddle. I have done it countless times. The LR4x4 forum had a few brilliant...

It's not difficult at all. Just time consuming and reasonably heavy. I personally prefer the engine-out method for the plain and simple reason that my garage is about 12 feet wide and hence not wide enough to manoevre an engine crane with a gearbox hanging off it from the sides. I usually get...

what jamesmartin said. That's how my last one failed. Very nice pedal travel but no gear selection. Pulled the engine out and found carnage.

Fuel feed is 8mm, return is 6mm.

Oh stop being fusspots :). My 90's roof is green and your summer is enough to freeze our bollocks off :p

I would blame the heater matrix solely on the smell.

Have you backed the rockers off?

Try to bump start it. If it starts without difficulty you can only blame your starter / battery / earth. If it doesn't, you have bigger problems.

It's most certainly a 4.203. For clarification purposes, the numbers mean the following: 4 - 4 cylinder 203 - 203 cubic inches (3326cc) I don't think that yours has been taken out of a forklift trucks. Those usually have different exhaust manifolds though heaven knows what would have been...

Very very normal. It's supposed to be like that. When you're done you're going to vow never to do it again. My fingers hurt for 3 days when I re-trimmed my seats. That was almost 7 years ago and I still wince at the thought.

It's dead easy. I did it myself a few years ago. First of all, rip out any existing hose and keep the end fittings. Buy yourself some new 8mm internal diameter fuel hose for feed and 6mm for return. Start working systematically from the tank to the pump (i.e. tank to lift pump, lift pump to...