Had mine 3 months & done 5k already! last service stamp by the garage i bought it from was done at 102k miles in January (belts & major service done at 98k), now on 109k & service indicator came up yesterday saying 30 days. Confusing, either garage didnt service or they didnt re-set the service...

Very nice. With de-tango'd headlights aswell. Had my '06 3 months now (done 5k miles already & still impressed).

i'm actually starting to miss getting grubby under the P38 :(:)

The P38 4.0 / 4.6 both have the same issues regarding liners. The 4.6 just has a longer stroke, same bore, same engine block. Not that many with TV screens but can be found. The 4.4 will be the later L322. 5k will get you a tired early model. I'd avoid the diesel L322's unless you like changing...

Later blocks had steps at the bottom to stop liners dropping. It still happened though as many liners were not pressed in fully during assembly, my P38 had this happen on 2 of the later blocks. I bought a top hat block done at CME but that failed eventually due to a crack. Turners would be my...

I do weekly runs to London from Sheffield & taking it steady down the M1 I could get 24. If you boot it though you'll struggle to get much past 20.

Yep, i practically gave mine away in the end.:(

For P38 there are : 2.5TD 4.0V8 petrol 4.6V8 petrol My 4.6 would average around 16mpg, 24mpg on a good steady run. LPG helped. I'd go for the 4.6 if your looking at petrol, better autobox than the 4.0l & little difference in mpg. The 4.6's are generally better spec'ed

+1 on Smith & Allen - Unilite 10w40. Big savings & having bulk means you have no reason to not change the oils when you get spare time. I did my engine oil every 6k & autobox & transfer box every 25k, diffs every 15k.

Looks like Epsom Green to me.

Buying a P38 is the fun part, maintaining one is well.....challenging....but rewarding. Was it Clarkson that said 'a range rover is like an STI, can be fun to get but difficut to live with' ;)

The photos look very familiar:( What do you mean by linishing marks around the bore on the gasket face, any pics?

+1 on P38's being rust free. About the only RR that doesnt suffer. Only issues tend to be bubbling around rear wheel arches & bottom edge of lower tailgate. The diesel is the more reliable. My old '02 4.6 never gave any electrickery issues in 5 years but engine problems were horrendous. No P38...

Hope it is just HG. Many rover V8's are sold with simple 'HG failure' when it's something more sinister. Seems like you know what to look for though so heads off should tell a story.

Not too sure Grrrrrr, I know LCF blocks were used for LR Genuine Exchange engines later on - usually done under warranty (as was the case with mine). Not sure all LCF blocks had the step but presume they added these when they changed to LCF from the WYF blocks. Mine didnt have the seriel number...

Fit the idler pulley & belt, mine was whining for a long time & was convinced it was alternator so refurbed & still there, turned out to be idler pulley in the end.

As said, the Britpart is a good quality unit....on this occasion. Wouldn't normally go with them for most things though.

LR never used top hat liners in production. The later LCF blocks have a step at the bottom of the block to prevent the liners dropping which is fine providing the liners are fully pressed in during assembly, which being LR they weren't (i still have my old LCF block in the shed with no 5 liner...

If it was from LR then very very unlikely to be top hatted, usually an exchange engine (LCF block). My LR exchange engine lasted approx 60k before it dropped a liner so you have a while yet.;)

+1 on the connections getting messed up when removing. Hit them with some penetrating fluid before removing otherwise you'll strip the threads.