I get 21mV just idling, so a fraction under your estimate, but I reckon it's probably fine. It was a brand new Bearmach less than 12k miles ago.

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Just to check; you mean replace the injector loom, not the whole loom right the way to the ECU plugs?

"4 Driver demand 1 fault" is the code it's given. Garage tested the throttle, as that seems to be what it relates to, and it's reading fine on Driver demand 1 when the pedal is pressed.

I assume the diagnostic systems that established garages have will read them fine? It's not like Nanocom and Hawkeye are the only viable options - just the cheapest consumer-ish ones?

The idea of removing the rocker cover makes me nervous haha. I'm sure its fine, I've just not gone there before. OK, so I'll have to get it to the garage to get the codes read. Is checking them, then clearing them, then trying to cause the issue again necessary? What should I be checking first...

It's from 2001, so should be EU2. It's been remapped and they didn't have to replace the chip, though; which I thought was a later thing. That seems extreme; I've never heard anyone say more than give them a good clean out. So it's Nanocom or bust, then?

How do I know if it's EU2 or EU3? Is there anything more serious it could be, which going for a drive would be bad for? I'm looking at maybe getting an iCarsoft LR V2 so I at least have something I can read codes with. Air filter is good, changed just before Christmas (which has annoyed me...

Well, I've had hoses off the turbo, and nothing relevant seems amiss. Sure the intercooler hose is past it and a little delaminated inside, but not split, so I can't see that being the problem here, as that's the pressurised side, right? Turbo wheel has no play, though that smear on the edge...

Of all the options so far, this is what I'm hoping it is has happened to one of the turbo hoses, and not something much worse (like a cracked head, which one person has been convinced about so far)

I know it doesn't necessarily mean its fine; but it's had a brand new fuel pump less than 20k miles ago. EDIT: checked and its only 12k miles ago, even.

Driving down to London yesterday, 73 on cruise control, when I deactivated and pressed the accelerator I got almost no response. Engine was running, car was still moving more than a coast, but slowing down. Pulled over, ignition off, cloud of smoke (white/grey, one thought it looked a bit blue...

On Thursday I swapped out my leaky top hose - the bleed screw was shot, and thermostat (I've made that a habit - they always seem to fail as soon as they're refilled). Couldn't bleed the system 100% as it wouldn't get up to temperature - presumably just too cold out to manage that while...

Old girl sailed through her MOT, so that's nice :-) Now to find time in the next 10 days to replace the leaky top hose, and hope there's not an additional leak.

An afternoon of poking around, and here's what I've found. 1. Despite some concerns, there's no sign of leaking around the power steering pump, other than the coolant I already know about (new top hose on the way as bleed plug is just shot), and general oil all over the engine bay 2. However...

Oh hell no. I have axle stands and ramps. OK, well the rest of the metalwork, at least? Hmmm, it's been more than 6 months, so perhaps mordant won't be necessary, then.

Well the weather combined with not really needing the car much makes it a good time to get underneath to clean and paint, right? Based on previous suggestions I have some mordant (freshly galvd chassis fitted last year) and enamel tractor paint coming on Monday, but first I'll have to give it a...

Likely, especially as I have some in the loft already. But I'll also want to paint the chassis over the summer, so might use the same enamel tractor paint for both.

Mine's lying around waiting 'till I decide what I'm gonna paint it with. Printed a nice new cover for it once I do, though

I don't have steering wheel controls anyway. Maybe one day I'll fancy it, so thanks for the links :-)