Lemforders on mine as well. good quality.

My previous D2 did the same . Sometimes changed well, sometimes over 3000rpm. I did 2 oil changes and added auto box additive and the problem solved. I do not know if it was the 2x oil changes which solved the problem or the additive?

I have rebuilt cartridge on mine for about 6-7 years (previous owner has done this). It runs OK (was checked by turbo specialist about 2-3 years ago and confirmed OK) but having oil in the pipe from the beginning.

I tried the grease method as well, even i found a bar which was almost perfect fit it did not work. But you are right it works in several cases, maybe in my case the bush was too tight.

be prepared with spigot bush removal tool. I have tried some tricks but none of them worked, finally I made this:

on my previous D2 it was also very stiff. To move it the first time was a real fight, but after it got better and better. If the selector cable is out of use for long time it gets dry and will stick. regarding on oil level in the Tbox, I think no connection....

I recently had brake light plus abs and tc on only. No hdc. Also no error codes found by nanocom. Happened 2 times so far, and if i restart the car all gone and do not come back for days. They showed up both times during slow turning.

My previous D2 was an auto and also had change problems from 1st to 2nd (changed only on high revs). After 2 oil changes and some auto trans additive with the 2nd change the problem solved.

Can you give me the type of sensor you used? Also take a picture how it is installed (how far from the tank and which position). Thanks

Test it and if it works let me know the sensor type. I have everithing prewired, ready for installation. Thanks

Thanks! Did exactly the same. For me the sensor was not sensetive enough to detect tha level stabely. Once it semmed to be working, then it gave false signal. When I tested the sensor on a normal palsic bottle it worked fine but seems that the wall of the reservoir is too thick.

Hello Can you share with us the way how you want to check the coolant level? I have tried by installing special sensor and check the level from outside but due to wall thickness of the reservoir tank it did not work.

That is how mine look like. The foam inside has a very complex shape, different thicknesses from 1 to maybe 30-40mm so even you find good quality material it will have uniform thickness ( let say 10-20mm) so will never have the same fit. I put it back as it is and change only the robber...

No way to find it in hungary, but even you lucky and find one it will be very expensive. Mine is not that bad, if i can change the rubber gromet and maybe remove the oil filler cover which vibrates and makes noise, it will be fine.

Thanks for your comments! I will see what i can renew on it (rubber grommet, foam maybe?), then put it back.

Hi All I made some repairs on my car in the past weeks (leaking fuel cooler, cam cover gasket change) and left the engine cover removed to check if all leaks have gone. As my cover not in the best condition (foam oily and falls in small pieces, oil cap cover vibrates, rubber piece around left...

Just one. I think the 2nd groove designed for something else as seems to be different in width, and seems that the cooler housing is also wider in that area.

If the other end will start leaking then i will remove the whole unit or maybe do also in situ. Will be more difficult but as i have LHD car i have more room there.

I have AT2s but not fully satisfied with them. Mine are at least 6 year old and about 50% wear out. Good on normal conditions but was very slippy today on snowy road. Also found them bad on maddy conditions. But as mentioned maybe due to wear and age.

I did the job 2 days ago on situ. Changed only the leaking front end. Was very easy took only an hour. No need to drain the cooling system as only very minor coolant looses when you remove the front hose. I used standard 9mm wide clamps by grinding it to 7mm on the 4 places where the plastic...