Hi all. Just a quick one. Do the drivers footwell and it's adjoining side panel unbolt from early Range rover classics. Mine are rotten and need to be replaced. I know the later classics have spot welded inner panels but was wondering if the earlier ones are easier to remove? Thanks all.

Thanks for all of that Info.....Lots to check. I am thinking it could be stuck in low range as there appears to be no difference whether the red lever is forward or back. P.S. You are all spot on with your advice regarding the red lever pushed forward for high range.....sorry for my brainfart...

That's strange because when I push it forward it moves slower with higher revs and definitely feels like low range :(

It is fitted with an aftermarket rev counter. There are 3 levers. The main gear lever and the high/low lever along with the pop up yellow topped lever and they are all working as they should. The red topped lever is pulled back towards the seatbox and the transferbox is in high range.....Thanks.

No. I have checked that by actually putting it into low ratio and experiencing the expected result.

Throttle is opening fully and it accelerates very rapidly. It just reaches a point to what feels to me like that it peaks early and I have to change gear early to continue picking up speed.

Hi all. Looking for some advice on my series 3 SWB V8. It is fitted with Santana axles and I was told by the vendor that it had an Ashcroft overdrive transfer box at some point. It sits on 33 inch tyres. My problem is that I am not getting very much top speed out of each gear. It runs out of...

That's interesting. Did the transit shocks have double eyelets for the series mounts?

Thanks for that....

Okay....I will consider that helpful information. Brushable would appear to be the better option. Does it take primer and paint well?

Thanks for that rob1miles.....It doesn't look like terrafirma do shocks for series landies. I've looked at their Toyota and Isuzu options and while having eyelets on both ends, there is no exposed piston option like the pro comps which I think is important for clearance in the series landy...

Thank you Nodge68....at least I have something to go off now. Do you know if that is available in a tube to be used in a sealing gun?

Hi all. Do any of you knowledgeable people know the name of the sealant that is used to seal between panels. It cures like toffee or chewing gum with a very similar consistency. I have been to lots of motor factors and they all keep offering me tiger seal or tech 7 as well as silicone based...

Bump......anyone?

Hi all. I'm having a bit of a predicament with my 1977 series 3 SWB. It has been lifted by the previous owner using extended military shackles, parabolic springs and 33 inch mud tyres. It is very impressive and looks great. My problem is that the standard Pro-comp ES3000 shocks that are...

Hi all. I was just wondering if any of you nice people have an Isuzu 2.8 turbo diesel to series 3 gearbox conversion plate you don't want lying around. I know it is an older conversion and people have moved on to other diesels at this stage so I was hoping that somebody had one lying around...

Thanks for your input... I presume that's an internal crack and not an external visible one?...

I'm just getting round to removing the cylinder head (15p) because of the dreaded fuel leaking into oil problem but before I go that far I was wondering if anybody could point out any other way the oil and fuel can mix other than a cracked fuel rail. I fitted new genuine pert seals and washers...

Cheers....I wasn't aware of that. :(

Anyone know if a 10P head is interchangeable with a 15P head? Cheers guys....