Dropped the rear seats to move some stuff round the farm and now have a rattle/knocking coming from the rear drivers side seat it locks into place but can move it back and forth a little other side is solid.i take it there is a spring in the locking mechanism any info would be welcome as now...

The dark brown sludge is usually dirty oil and anti freeze mixing would be cream coloured if clean oil.pop the cooling hose off at the water pump see if you have the same in the cooling system and get your finger down under the rocker cover to see if it's there.

Sure it's not a leaky heater matrix????.

Always handy to have and a real life saver when fitting the spare by the roadside.are there any good ones out there?.

Ok cheers will get both as inner is really beaten up.

I think it's number 19 tho the pic is a 89-94 shock set-up the lower rubber dampers are different on 94-98.i'm sure I have both number 11s tho again the upper one of these would have a wider hole to allow it to slide past the threads and shank.

Just replaced the top bush and lowers to find I have a washer missing anyone know the part number it would be a top outer or the bottom lower (97 300tdi).

Bias valves normally either start to leak or allow the rears to lock up early when they fail not sure if they can fail in the way your brakes have.i would go for the master cylinder so long as your sure everything else is ok no kinks or crushed brake lines?.

If you're able to make brake lines you can give the brakes a direct feed from the master cylinder also make the front feed from the master cylinder go to the rear brakes that what I did to isolate the problem.

Just a thought air in the master cylinder have you had the brake lines open to the point it ran dry at any time as this would be a different bleed process to get the air out.

master cylinders run a duel circuit one for front and back (I have had this before not on a disco) maybe the seals have worn not allowing the pressure to build pedal will still go firm but will travel a bit further than usual.

Suprise suprise I also have leaking sunroofs only prob is someone has had a go at it already mastic sealant between the glass and seal not sure what's going to be the best way to open them(electric) without wrecking something ?.

Breakdown cover policies normally cover this they will send a locksmith.

The product is called frost fighter (tab bonding kit) only available from USA will cost about £45 including shipping.if it's the mirror tabs will be cheaper to replace me thinks.just an update o/s mirror bad contact cleaned and fixed n/s broken wire door to pillar many thanks for the help.

Funny enough this is what advice I was given by a American car forum to get the brake retaining bolts off a cougar after breaking bars and bits .redneck maybe but it worked.

Try tapping the bar while under load with a hammer or tap the socket end into the plug while under load just be patient may take some work to get it to move.

your tank breather may be blocked creating pressure when standing ( fuel expansion/ evaporation) and a vacuum when driving

Ok thanks will check that out this weekend to be honest never thought of checking the mirror elements as replaced drivers side earlier this year ( thank you white BMW 4x4 dick head) then again just because it's new doesn't mean it works.

Finally got my tab stuck back on the rear window heater grid but the heated mirrors never have worked.heated mirrors fitted and wired up but no voltage when the rear window demist is on i assume there's a relay is it twin circuit or would both fail together?.

Don't use a screwdriver you may scratch the seat use a wooden dowel/garden cane and cloth