^^^^^^^Everything above, but assuming that making it more "usable" includes having a reliable vehicle, it is definitely worth taking the time to give it a good service, as this can reveal any issues that may impact reliability. Change the engine, gearbox, transfer box and both differential oils...

Looks like Arles Blue, also called Windjammer Blue. Best to check against the year though, but it looks just like mine.

Echo the comments on DDS products. The door repair sections I used were quite well made and fitted well. Would not offer the same recommendation for SP 4x4 panels!

Welcome also from Dorset! Both of your trucks look mighty fine!

I've been using the Screwfix riveter you describe for a few years now and I think it is great, particularly when using stainless shank rivets. I used to reallu ache after a few "pops" of the only squeexe handled riveter. When replacing my cappings, I just bought a pack of closed head rivets...

Well it's been a useful exercise and I've learnt a lot. Got my new mainshaft now so it's going back together Asap.

Yes, I had planned to mark it but the synchro outer separated before I got the chance when I removed the first motion shaft and naturally hit the deck before I could do so. Next time I will mark up as soon as the casing is off! Thanks for your comments, I will follow your advice.

Thanks James. Interesting you say that because when I took it apart, it was opposite to the above picture, but, as mentioned, the manual states the machined groove on the inner hub should face the gear teeth on the outer member (as above). I'm inclined to put it back as dismantled but don't want...

Forgot to say, picture above is the position the manual sescribes, i.e. groove to gear side.

Whilst rebuilding my LT77, I notice that the inner hub of the 1st/2nd synchro was fitted the opposite of what the manual describes, i.e. it should be fitted with the radial groove on the inner hub facing the reverse gear but was fitted the other way up. I was intending to rebuild it as per the...

Thanks guys, will check that. Hope I can strip the box without any specialist pullers by adapting the tools that I have.

At least I rebuilt a spare 1.2 ratio LT230 last year, so that can go on at teh same time.

133k and it doesn't look like it's ever been apart. Damn shame they couldn't have got the design right in the first place.

Oh and yes, will be fitting a cross-drilled input gear in the LT230!

Having replaced my 19J with a 200tdi (which needed a new turbo and loads of other parts), I decided to remove the rear tub etc. to get good access to the chassis for painting and rustproofing. Whilst I can get to it, I'll just remove the transfer box to check the input shaft splines me...

Just tap out the brass sleeve with a long punch, remove and replace seal and carefully replace sleeve. No inner bearing on early stub axles. Mine is 89 and doesn't have any.

Harry's Garage is great. So is Harry's Farm.

The side airbags can be removed and the covers re-fitted if one understands the risks relating to handling of live airbags and is very careful. I did that with mine as I was never 100% happy with them being in place. I'm not recommending that you do this of course!

The side airbags can be removed and the covers re-fitted if one understands the risks relating to handling of live airbags and is very careful. I did that with mine as I was never 100% happy with them being in place. I'm not recommending that you do this of course!

The side airbags can be removed and the covers re-fitted if one understands the risks relating to handling of live airbags and is very careful. I did that with mine as I was never 100% happy with them being in place. I'm not recommending that you do this of course!