Smith & Allan are the people I use for all my oils and fluids for the bike and cars. You'll find their outlet shop on fleabay. I've always found them pretty good and fast deliveries too. They also sell any quantities from 1-200litres.

Put the seat cushions in the back. The missus kept complaining about tripping over them in the hallway. She can be a real misery at times:)

Unless, of course, you're not entitled to hold the V5. Do I detect a little skullduggery on behalf of the simple minded seller who's out to catch a simple minded buyer with his (or rather someone else's) heap of ****e :suspicious: :suspicious:

and your point is............ :scratching_chin:

Well, it took a while, but I finally got around to checking out my fuel fault. I started by bypassing the lift pump with a hand primer I had kicking around. The fault was, if anything, worse than before, so the lift pump was re-instated. So then I started at the back and worked forward...

Cheers. I've had a quick look at a how to posted on LR4X4.com It looks simple enough but very fiddly. It does sound a very likely candidate though. Yet one more thing to check over the weekend.:)

Thanks for that. I suppose it's the logical thing to do, really. Start at the back and work forward. Looks like I've got my weekend planned then:)

I've thought about that, but wouldn't the problem appear on acceleration or whenever the fuel flow was maximised if that was the case. I have done a quick visual of the fuel line and it looks ok. This is quite a specific thing. ie. it happens at 55mph plus and only after a few minutes of driving...

I've got an odd fuel problem with my 1988 19J 110. It will travel along quite nicely at 50mph all day and not miss a beat. As soon as I take it above 55mph, after about 5 mins it starts to exhibit signs of fuel starvation, ie it slows to under 50mph and then takes up the drive again and then...

Felt my accelerator cable snap whilst towing a trailer full of rubbish to the local tip. I managed to find a bit string in said rubbish and tied it to what was left of the cable and run it over the servo and down to the linkage. I had just enough accelerator to get her home at max. speed of...

The window channels are just screwed with self tappers onto the door frame around the top and onto thin metal strips that run down either side of the lower door. Mine were pretty well knackered so I just ripped them out and replaced with generic rubber window channel that I got from...

Just a tip - When you reassemble it all, check the routing for the push rod that operates the inner door handle. If you get it wrong (like wot I did), you'll end up opening the door every time you wind the window down!!

Thanks for the info. I've found some 60 amp cable on Fleabay, so I'll change that first. If it works I'll leave it on the ignition switch. If not I'll go for the relay option as you suggest. The fault is intermittent, (I sometimes have to wiggle the wiring to make the connection), so it takes a...

I'm thinking of taking the glow plugs off the ignition switch and wiring then into a separate momentary switch. Does anyone know if a 25 amp switch will do the job, as I can't seem to find anything with a higher rating. Also, because the plugs are directly wired, does anyone happen to know...

Made a new chequer plate floor for the driver's side and real purdy it looks too.:)

Just made my first attempt at mig welding on the old girl. I did the bottom edge of the bulkhead, where it becomes part of the floor pan on the drivers side. It isn't pretty and I'm sure a welder would condemn it as complete crap. But, hey, It's my crap!! and I'm really pleased with the result...

No, that doesn't make you paranoid. The tinfoil hat with the rabbit fur trimming does though. By the way, if that pic is your daughter, do you have any objection to a disgusting little perv with a penchant for jiggly breasts as a future son-in-law?:D

Hiya butty, Welcome to the madhouse. I'm just over the hill from you in Risca. I couldn't afford a gaylander, so I got a knackered old tratter! :welcome:

:5bspam:

Regarding your fan, I take it you've an electric variable or cycling fan which is designed to run at a speed to suit the engine temp. It's controlled by a thermostatic switch or possibly by the ECU (You didn't say what engine it is). If it's cold, the fan may stop all together or run very slow...