At last! Mr Dremel and I got busy and managed to get the old filter off. Once I cut the center away from edge I was expecting either the edge to be welded to the mount or the center to be welded to the thread. In fact the edge lifted off easily and the thread span off like it was new. There...

Makes sense. I have ordered a 'Plug - LYB100510L - Genuine LYB100510L' which is listed as the oil filter mount plug but doesn't say which of the holes it plugs.

I've got most of it off as you can see from the comparison photo, but the 'base plate' bit with the holes in is stuck fast. How something that spends its life soaked in oil can get so stuck is beyond me. If I can't sort the new one pronto then I'll get one of a local scrappy.

If there is one part you don't want to make more likely to leak oil then I suggest the oil filter bracket may be it.

...or not solved. See the attached video. Excuse my voice. Why redesign an oil filter mount to be like a feckin Swiss cheese? No idea what size or shape should go in here.....

Sound the idiot klaxon.... So I resolved the oil leak incident and it was entirely my fault. On the side of the oil filter mount there is a blanking plug with a 3/16 allen head. I didn't notice this on the old mount as it was so caked in crap and I was so preoccupied trying to remove the filter...

I'll have it apart at the weekend if I get a chance, but the centre threaded part looked like a solid part of the casting. Once I get the filter off I should be able to see how well the seal was mated to the housing. First thought was whether they changed the housing design/filter at some point...

It never came apart, or at least not yet, despite Stillsons etc. I was able to pick up a BNIB oil filter mount for peanuts on theBay so I fitted that this afternoon. Swapped the sensor over, fitted the new filter (firm hand-tight, smear of oil on the rubber seal), filled with oil and started the...

Cheeky b@st@rd :D You OK fella?

I certainly hope so. If not then I'll try and get a replacement part from a scrappy. I have the part number (LPX100510L) but I'm not paying £287 for a new one from Rimmers :eek:

Time for Plan B?

I've not had any issue gripping the filter and getting leverage - the 3 legged thing was pretty decent and so was the strap thing. I was able to get so much leverage that I destroyed the tool. I think that shocking it with a hammer may be more effective. How something that is literally full of...

Ahh, the subtle approach. Sounds good to me. Just bash a hole and use the hammer and chisel to turn the filter? Better to do it at the mounting end of the filter?

All the standing hasn't done this car many favours. And it hasn't had the engine undershield for a good while from what I can see. Removing the sump drain plug needed my big impact gun. The oil filter is proving more problematic. The strappy tool I got from Machine Mart just crumpled. The...

....and relax. Cheers @Nodge68 Onto more interesting challenges now, like getting it MOTed. I'm sure that will give me a nice list of jobs.

Soooooo. Finally had a couple of hours free to do something fun. Swapped the coolant bottle with a new style one. Bearmach made and the tab that the screw goes through doesn't sit flush with the panel. Whatever. New top rad hose as the old one was a bit raggy. Blew my jiggle valve. Slowly...

My '99 certainly doesn't. And it has a distributor. How quaint.

Slipped liners can often be heard as a clicking as the liner bashes up and down. Slipped liner is not engine death though. Don't rag the engine until it is fully up to temperature to reduce the problems of thermal shock. Fit a PRT if it doesn't have one. Replace the coolant and pump if they are...

Proper tool, 10 seconds, done. Now to get the old expansion tank out as some ape has knackered the fastener.

I reckon I can get from Friday to Saturday without losing this one! Bet I leave it at work....