The SP mount arrived today and so far it looks very good. Its certainly very solid and well made. I’ll report more once it’s fitted.

I went for the SP one in the end, despite them not having a phone number to speak to anyone. That put me off, but I like the idea of their powder coating having a texture so I went for it. It’s shipped apparently, so I’ll do a review here when it arrives. Fingers crossed.

Does anyone have any firsthand knowledge of the Raptor vs the SP vs the others binnacle mounts? I need to replace mine but undecided. Cheers, Jim

Lots of bits today. Cleaned, freed-up and greased the bonnet lock pin and adjusted the slam panel catch. Fitted the mud flaps. Fitted the front sills. Final fitted the eyebrow arches. Final fitted the front grill. Changed the gearbox and transfer box oil and sediment filter. So no exciting...

Thanks for the link Mystery. I’ve been looking at the SP one as it does look very well made, plus its a good reference as you suggest. Id be buying one if it weren’t for the cost (I think I’ve got to shell out for front door skins which I hadn’t planned on). I wonder if they’d sell me some...

Yep. I have the tailgate which I want to keep, so I’m going to attempt to make s reasonable upper section from this door.

So today I bought a rear door with the intention of converting it into a cat-flap for my ex-pickup. This could be a long running thread so don’t hold your collective breaths…

Hi Phil. I managed to speak to them at the end of last week in the end. The 700 is the skin and the 702 is the complete door. Be intested in the price your guy is quoted though. Thanks for your efforts mate.

Well look at that! Thanks Slo

I think the hole you’re talking about it to clear the bolt head in the floor. I mean the one in my pic with the square plastic rawlplug thing in. If the plate goes above the tunnel, that plastic doo-dah isn’t needed I guess so does the tunnel middle hole have a captive nut?

Cheers guys. So what’s the point of the square hole for in the floor plate then? It must have a square nut thingy in but there wouldn’t be anything to screw down to it.

Hi all. Can someone tell me, what goes on first? The rear trans tunnel cover or the floor panel? Looks like the centre hole is for a captive square but so I think the floor is first but can someone confirm please. Cheers, Jim

Thanks slomofo. I’ll take off the clip and bin it. Victory!!!!!!

Thanks for looking for me dag. Perhaps I won’t have either soon enough.

More work in the seat risers today. That extra 30mm allows the seat to go back quite a bit and at 6’4” it’s now much better. Tomorrow I have to make a second riser as the new seats have a different fixing pattern to my ‘86 seat box. I also stripped out the dash again for the new radio wiring...

Progress so far. +30mm lift and I’ll make it so I can move the rails back too, although with the bulkhead still in, that’ll be a limitation.

Started making some seat risers today. I’ve the old style seat frames and seat box so the MUD ones don’t fit hence the DIY approach. Have to say though, MUD were most helpful on the phone.

Hi all. Has anyone used door skins from DDS Metal Services? They list the skins I need by they only sell to the trade so cannot get a price. I’m rebuilding my early 110 doors and stripped the skins of paint today. They’re very pitted and I’m looking for options, which are limited as they are...

Test fit the roof today. Great to see the final shape. The sides are having a pair of windows fitted to the front so at least some of those dents will go.

If you want I can take pictures of the factory routing tomorrow. I’m pretty sure the larger pipe is on the top.