Not sure what a 'hitler mobile' is, but this is definitely true for the Range Rover L322 (TD6, etc). The autobox selector has to be in Park to get the key out and most L322's are autos.

Are you sure it's engine related? If you've got a dual mass flywheel that's on the way out that can give you a very lumpy tickover that clears when the revs go on.

Does this mean that if the immobiliser is immobilised, my second key, which has knackered circuitry after a severe drowning, can be used again?

No starting problems, but where I live I'm happy to do without an immobiliser, especially considering the amount of bother they seem to cause other folk.

Is it possible to disconnect or bypass the immobiliser permanently??

In that recent cold spell my P38 suddenly started operating the central locking all on its own. Bit of a nuisance the first time when I had let the thing warm up with the engine running and all the heaters/blowers going and I was outside scraping the ice off the windows. It also had three...

For me, the most important test you can do after a run is to try to squeeze the top hoses. If they are very hard then there's more pressure in there than there should be. If you can compress them easily, start smiling - there's a chance it's probably not the head.

It's only my opinion based on my experience, but I've had to do loads to the P38 -suspension bags, cylinder head, ABS sensors, aircon - even now I'm driving with a SBS light on and a warning 'bong' whenever it goes over 20 mph until I can get around to fixing that. Whereas the L322 has had to...

Some folk have all the luck - my rad from the LR dealer rad lasted 4 days!

235 Pirelli Scorpions on the P38 against 255 Goodyear Wranglers on the L322 - about the same tread depth, so not a lot in it there, but I agree that tyres are a huge factor when you get off the tarmac. For years I've competed in 4x4 trials, always in Class 5 (open modified), and mostly with...

Just like one other poster in this thread, I hate to be the harbinger of doom but you just have to consider the possibility of a cracked head. Just like many others I tried loads of other 'cures' but I could have saved a fortune if I'd put the new head on earlier (like 2 rads which...

Currently I have both. The P38 2.5DSE manual is a 'T' reg with 88K and the L322 is a 3L TD6 Vogue Auto on an 02 plate with 78K. The only reason I have the L322 is that I was plagued by the not uncommon overheating problem on the P38 that is well documented in these threads. After trying every...

I got a similar result, although i got away with not changing the battery. I had been using a Halfords diesel charger, leaving it on until it showed fully charged, but it regularly lost its charge so I went in to my friendly local battery dealer, fully expecting to shell out for a new battery...

A while ago the exhaust on my '99 P38 DSE needed attention. My local spannerman has done a lot of work on all sorts of land rover derivatives and he suggested that he could convert the original twin exhaust pipes into a single one. I gave the go ahead and it seems to work OK, but I wonder if I'm...

I've got a 52 reg TD6 Vogue, and I've been having exactly the same problem for months - leave it outside the house for a few days without starting and the battery just goes dead flat. I was talking to a chap I know and he said that he had the same problem when he left his RR outside his mum's...

Hoping I'm not tempting fate but this time it seems to be running as it should. This has been a nightmare 12 months, and often felt like I was chucking good money after bad as I tried just about everything - took out thermostat, changed temperature sender, new head gasket and skimmed head (cold...

You could also check the EGR Valve (exhaust gas recirculation valve), which can 'soot up' and give symptoms similar to those you describe. I have seen posts on this point in the past - maybe worth a trawl back through.

I've recently been through a similar saga with my '99 DSE. Driven locally it wouldn't overheat at all, and it was just running much too well to be a head gasket gone, but put it on a dual carriageway at 70-ish and after around 20 minutes the temp gauge would ping over to the stop and it would go...

Just quick post to say that my problem has been cured, after a couple of false starts. First it was suggested that the crankshaft sensor could be faulty - that was changed, but no real improvement. Then it was suggested on a couple of RR forums that the culprit could be thr secondary fuel pump...

Apart from the obvious comment that it makes you blind, I'd appreciate some input as I struggle to find the answer to my current dilemma. Vehicle: '03 RR Vogue TD6 3 litre diesel auto. For a while I'd been thinking that it was taking a long time to fire when starting. It didn't seem to matter...