You can drive them a while in 2wd with the diff locked. I snapped a half shaft in Wales and had to drive it home and for work for a week before I could get a replacement

Td5 water temp gauges are not the best way to measure the temp. Ive always doubted mine as it gets up to just over a 1/3rd and stays there, despite being dunked in freezing cold water in winter when wading or being red hot with the fan on towing in the middle of summer. Google it but I'm sure...

I have the same issue and it's on my to do list. I'm not sure if they are bulbs like the clocks, mine went from all working to non working overnight

Yes if it's a 90 with a long nose diff. I'm about to fit a disco one in mine The 110/+30 might have used the p38 short nose 4 pin diff which is different

Yes mate. I have a bilge blower in the inlet of my fan and get such a good flow that it cools the whole lot down in really cold weather. You dont see it on the guage but the heat dies off

Is it just blowing cold when your not moving and stuck in traffic? Mine has always done that and is a defender thing. On the motorway, fast A roads or even in town as long as the motor is under load it stays hot. Sit in a traffic jam and it slowly cools down. It's just the engine doesn't seem...

I've always used difflock as soon as I go offroad. I hardly ever get stuck and I've never trashed anything till I did a rear half shaft a few weeks back. But that was more down to the landy bouncing that anything else

Did this ever get resolved as I have exactly the same issue and symptoms. I've done all the wheel bearings again and I cant get rid of it either....... I'm tempted to change the calipers and clicking brake pads because I've done wheel bearings a million times

Amazing they are. Refined they are not. Welcome ;-)

I'm a dab hand. Especially as I cut a acess panel in the floor so I can change it like a discovery one without dropping the tank

I put a new vdo one on mine after it died not realising my injector seals had gone and started to put carbon in the tank. So then I had to buy another after doing the injector seals Fast forward to a year later I nearly ran out of fuel and put a Jerry can in to make sure I made the fuel station...

Reading between the lines there, they dont want the job. I've had a few mc fail when or after doing fluid changes over the years. It's almost like the new fluid effects the seals. I have started using a air vacuum blender and changing the fluid is a piece of ****

After I put petrol in my fuel pump didnt last. It started off by going slower and slower till I was flat out and misfiring doing 50mph

I dont know a thing about the nano com. My guess re the misfire would be over boost. Check the waste gate isnt seized and if the modulator is suspect it can be plumbed in like the td5 defender

1st guess would be a bad earth. I'd try the main one on the bulkhead and chassis

My drop arm on the steering box worked loose check that and then the condition of all 3 track road ends. Check wheel swivel bearings, wheel bearings and play into the steering box. If non found try adjusting your steering box

Yeah that bolts a bitch on mine too. Mine had been blanked on the egr cooler. If I ever have to remove the manifold I'm gonna get the little sod out and blank it there. As per MOT mine went through fine but it's not as obvious as yours for being blanked off as it's all under the plastic cover...

That's part of the egr. From the exhaust to the egr cooler (unless yours is pre egr cooler) Remove it and blank at the exhaust manifold

Looks good. Better than the ****e rubber plugs in the std chassis

I always service mine and clean mine before a MOT so I have new air, oil and diesl filters. I did the injector washers before the last one and adjusted the injector plungers and it was the best emissions result yet. I work off make it the best it can be when they see it's easier to get a pass