Fortunately when I did mine a couple of years ago I bought spares as stock was low back then. Try James Coleman on the Range Rover P38 UK facebook site, he has pretty well everything

+111111111 :)

From what I remember when it first happened to me someone had said that the 50% latch movement was to prevent the door from opening prematurely. It did require the latch to be fully closed again to reset itself.

When this happened to me I pushed the door hard to close it and then it worked, I had to do it a couple of times though, the latch seems to go into a state of limbo if it doesnt release fully. I have had it happen on one of my rear doors too, same procedure worked. Just a thought

one of mines been nearly a year so far, no leaks yet.

I certainly agree, sometimes it is a right royal pain, but worth it in the end

I didn't realise that, I spent 24 years in Canada, they don't have MOT's, when you buy a car it has to be "certified" after that it can fall to pieces!! They do have spot checks for old bangers that look like they are collapsing but there are some pretty serious scrap driving around. I left in...

I didn't realise they had MOT's in France Keith, its bad enough with them over here. I installed a cheap sensor a while back after fixing the pivot shaft wobble with metal epoxy...... So far so good, I did have to swap it from the rear right to the rear left because it kept throwing an out of...

I would also take a look at the connector block in the A Pillar kick panel plus the connectors to the EAS ECU and the connector to the driver pack, all are notorious

I have made them from Ally and attached plumbers solder mats to it to insulate it, seemed to work ok, just need a large mat. If your steel bit is still ok you could attach the mat to that. I think originals are not available now.

Is the heat shield there, if not, ya might wanna put one there before guy fawkes gets you

Is that near the cat?

I usually get a rash from just looking at the old girl :)

+1 on that Keith, I tried to clean mine first but still had issues, since soldering and heat shrink my issues have nigh on disappeared.

Compared to what mine looked like before I cut and soldered them they look shiny shiny ;)

That is one very clean connector!

I assume that you have reset any faults, if not the compressor will not run unless you use the software.

Hi Keith, I have a set of carbide drills (not masonry ones) but was hoping not to have to drill! Is my assumption correct that if the head/flange has sheared the bumper will drop and slide? I have done the side ones, I had to build new outrigger brackets and replaced the slides with new so they...

When the head shears off the torx bolts on the rear bumper can the bumper still be removed with the threaded bit still in? I seem to remember reading a post a while back that so long as the flange has gone the bumper will still slide off and you can drill the remains from the bracket afterwards...

Mine passed on Thursday! Tires slightly cracked (they were put on in 2010 to be fair) and the fuel line above tank has slight corrosion. Not bad considering!!!!