I put an H180 in my 3.9 a while back. I did a thread about it https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/time-for-surgery.296902/ Hopefully that will cover what you need. I know yours is not efi but the mechanics of it are basically the same. After you swap the cam, you will need to play with...

An iffy sender is possible, the best way to check would be to get an oil pressure test gauge with the right adapter to screw in to the oil pressure switch port. A mechanical gauge should be the most reliable indicator. The workshop manual sets out the following: Disconnect battery, remove oil...

From your pictures you don't have an oil cooler, this is probably fine but the hotter the oil the thinner it is and you may see noticeable changes in idle oil pressure because of this. You could fit an oil cooler if you wanted to, sandwich plates are readily available as are stand alone oil...

Sorry to hear this isn't resolving quickly. A gearbox fluid change is not difficult, I have flushed my D3 box twice because when I bought the car with 123k on the clock I was certain the box had never seen a fluid change, also, I had some juddering that I wasn't happy about. After flushing...

Sorry to hear about your issues. I would be suspicious of the ATF, does it satisfy the technical specification for the gearbox? Disco 3 transmission problems with juddering are well documented and indicate the torque converter may need replacing although it is also possible that the symptoms...

It is true there is a limiter but the main function of the road speed transducer is to tell the ecu if the car is moving and then engage (or stop) idle stabilisation. The speed limiting function is indeed present but it is doubtful this is the issue here. If you suspect it is a road speed...

AFAIK replacing the idle control valve does not require any reset of the ecu on a 14CUX hotwire injection system. Have you got cats? Maybe a bit left field but how good is the battery and alternator and are the main earth points clean? Discool is correct there is no speed sensor, no crank...

I like the photos, very interesting. I am glad to hear you had a positive indication after improving the wiring. As for the schrader valve on the fuel rail I think Discool has covered it, I certainly didn't have a valve on my '91 RRC. As for the rest of it, don't be scared of this engine; it...

It sounds like your ECU will be in limp mode or will be trying to run a cat map with no cat input. IIRC with no tune select resistor the ECU will default to a catalyst map. You need to have the correct tune resistor as Discool said. Fit the correct tune resistor then disconnect the ecu for a...

This is an interesting one. So you have a V8 on 14CUX Hotwire injection in a boat. First question, is it running cat or non-cat? Your problem is the engine will fire then die unless you disconnect the fuel pump then it runs until the fuel in the rail is used. There are a number of...

It might be worth looking at the main feed to the starter motor. Remove the big cable and give it a clean. Clean the terminals on the starter motor then throw it back together and see if that helps.

Sorry it didn't work out but very glad you were able to walk away. If it only was a cam that wouldn't be so bad - a cam swap is achievable in a weekend assuming no dramas. Wet footwells, mmmmm.......RUST! Good luck with your search.

That is a truly heroic effort, much respect. Good luck with rebuilding the engine (if it can be salvaged).

Cats or not depends on manufacturing date; not aware it was an option. I suspect it will be non-cat but well worth checking as O2 sensors are known to cause running and idle issues when they start to play up. ABS was standard on Vogue SE, not sure about Vogue. Bleeding the ABS system on these...

No problem. BTW on engine pick up, it will bog slightly if you yank the throttle open but then rev quickly - this is normal but on the road and under load it should pull strongly with no misfires, stutters or hesitation. If you want a giggle, manually shift the gears, you can hold it on the cam...

RUST. Diff pans - rust. Shock turrets - more rust. Brake pipes - rust. ABS make sure it works. Wheel bearings. Swivel pre-load. Steering damper. Ignition system. Cooling system - open the pressure cap and see if there is evidence of stop leak additives. Check the radiator, any snail trails...

I don't know about a pdf of the manual but the genuine workshop manual is essential. You also need to understand that 1991 was a model changeover year meaning some bits might be from the 1990MY; for example, my '91 RRC had 1990MY front axle - this is important because the 1990 front axle...

Assuming you are happy that you have the basic bits right it looks like you need to focus on the spark bit of the cycle. The ignition system is very simple on these engines. The loss of spark suggests that you are either losing the trigger for the coil field to collapse to induce the spark or...

FWIW the timing looked retarded, the rotor arm should be past No1 at TDC so you're probably a tooth or maybe two out on the dizzy drive. That engine sounds like it is struggling to turn over, is the battery up to the job? It should spin quicker than that. Coil location is unusual. Not sure how...

You still looking for an RRC? If you're interested I have an LSE that I want to move on. Not sure if it what you want as it is not exactly a "rolling" restoration. I don't want stupid money for it and I will include my assorted collection of RRC parts. If you might be interested, drop me a PM.