Stripping the top end is just making work at this point because you don't know if it is actually necessary. Really you need to either crawl under it with the engine running and then check for exhaust leaks or if you have access to a ramp get it up in the air. You could also try listening to the...

Go with the easy stuff first. Discool is probably right. If you had cam/follower issues I would have thought you would know about it as performance would be poor. Slipped liner is a possibility but check exhaust first, hopefully you'll find it is just a bust gasket, easy fix but if on manifold...

Another thing to maybe look at is the alternator and battery. Both need to be in good order. Easy to check with a volt meter. Another check is to drive along then turn on heater fan on max, heated rear screen, main beam and any other large electrical load. If you get a misfire then alternator...

Just a thought - try unplugging the cold start injector. It's the one on the side of the plenum.

BTW, nearly forgot, interesting that at high revs no misfire. This points to lambda control problems because at higher engine speeds and definitely at wot the ecu ignores the O2 sensors.

A few years ago when I first bought my Range Rover I used to get a similar problem. I had the ecu tested, I had the air flow meter tested, apparently both were fine! I looked at fuel pressure regulator, distributor, ignition timing and anything I could imagine. Every test and check I did showed...

My RRC still has the Boge unit in place, it has leaked a bit and probably doesn't work. My original springs had become really tired and I found I could bottom out the rear end very easily so a couple of years ago I did a spring change, put red/white HD springs on the rear and standard rear...

You say running rich? Have you had it on a gas analyser? Anyway, sounds like quite an engine so it should be a simple problem. I suspect the issue might be the loss of the speed transducer, this may have caused a fault condition with the ecu so it has defaulted to limp mode which is a basic rich...

BTW nearly forgot to say, did you re-set the ecu after it popped the check engine light on? If you don't reset the ecu, it will run in limp mode which is very rich. This is O.K. if you drive everywhere with your foot to the floor, however, you'll probably maybe manage 6mpg and you'll kill your...

O.K. don't throw in the towel. This will be something stupid and probably easy to fix. The reason I say that is the engine itself will start and run suggesting everything is there - fuel, spark, bang. The lack of idle I suspect is the clue and the check engine light is the key. Unfortunately...

That sounds encouraging. Did you test the old air flow meter to see if it was duff or just in need of adjustment? Testing is easy enough with a digital volt meter, you can check CO trim and air flow. Also, don't forget with a later catalyst engine like yours should be, once warm, the ecu ignores...

Vac advance doesn't do much at idle but if the vac advance unit is shot you essentially get an inlet air leak which can upset the way the engine idles. Also, a duff vac unit will mean throttle response is slow because you done get the right amount of advance to pick up engine speed off idle...

Why would you want carbs? Don't give up on it. The EFI is not complicated. Search this section for possible checks and tests I promise at one time or another I have posted how to investigate pretty much the whole system. You need to remember misfires can be ignition or efi, sometimes deciding...

Guys, you can adjust a throttle pot. You can slightly enlarge the mounting holes with a needle file so you can achieve the small amount of movement required to adjust it. As I have suggested before, get in to the V8 section and do a search, I have posted on efi and ignition checks and fixes.

Two things maybe to look at 1: vac advance - is it working, or is there a vacumm leak on the inlet side somewhere. 2: get the dvm out and check your throttle pot for base voltage setting then also check scaling. As I think may have been suggested, might be worth checking your ignition timing...

Hello down there!! I see there is almost a heartbeat here. Whats with all these sprogs!! Wow how things change. I was just reminiscing about some of the adventures we had way back when this thread started, the people who have gone but not forgotten and those who have faded away. I miss the...

Jump over to the engines part of the forum and get in to the V8 section and do a few searches. Assuming you have hotwire injection I have posted various checks and fixes for misfires over the years. HTH

If the viscous coupling goes you get issues on tarmac. AFAIK a '94 LSE will have traction control that operates on the back wheels only, the abs system monitors wheel speed and applies the brakes to gain traction so it sounds like the system was operating as intended and the limiting factor was...

I think Discool is on the right line. Depending on which carbs you have, maybe look at popping the tops off and checking the diaphragms are in one piece, if the needles can't rise properly then you will have all sorts of funny running, also check ignition timing.

Removing the air con on a classic doesn't affect the PITA getting to the resistor pack. It was a while ago when I did mine but pretty sure there is no really viable option than remove the bonnet, then the scuttle and then you can swap the resistor pack which takes about 2 mins!