And this is why I wrote it with quotes... It cuts power and so on, so makes it "limp" so I wrote "limp mode" not limp mode.

Wellll...... Theres the overboost "limp mode" that clears after restart or clearing the code while driving..

Thanks Guys. As as short update to the current status of my discos. Well, I have 4 of them now. Bought 2 discovery 1's last year. For some few hundred euros per. LOTS or new metal needed on the bodies on both of them and I mean a LOT. Croker vs Rover had no rust compared to mine 🤣

Is the click from a relay or solenoid? If the battery is warm and has a good charge? I'd go for a new starter. ~150 euros from aeromotors and ~180 euros from 4x4parts. If getting it melting in next few days brings no help.

Do You have sunroofs? Go under the car and find a hole on the inside of the sill and clean it as good as you can. Atleast the front sunroofs drain inside the a pilar.

It's really not too bad of a job. Just bag and label all the nuts, bolts etc You take off, immediately upon removal. I had my TD5 head repaired this summer. Next time when I need to remove a TD5 head, I will unbolt intake, exhaust etc etc, before removing it so I can do it on my own. I went...

No issues yet... But, we aren't allowed to put LED bulbs in if the headlamp assembly if it's not made for LEDs, no matter what the beam pattern is. Will see in january on my next MOT. I can't change the bulbs on my TD5 without taking out the bumper... sooo, fingers crossed...

Auxbeam Q20 series in both of mine. 1:1 size, no extra wires etc nonsense.

Theres a lot I didn't do on that write up. I removed the valve cover and rocker shaft, I did not loosen the rocker adjusters, just take the whole thing out. Did not lock the camshaft in place etc etc. Removed viscous fan to be able to rotate engine. I got the injectors out using a interior...

Have two 200tdi disco1. 3 and 5 door. Far from roadlegal due to massive bodyrot, i mean almost all the sills, floors, wheeltubs etc pretty much gone with the wind... But am going to fix them... Eventually.

Sure.

As none have mentioned, or atleast I did not notice skimming through.... Get an adjustable panhard for the front when doing the lift so You can get the front axle lined up correctly.

Just a normal M6 will do.

Your **** tank (adblue) has the wrong fluid in it, or no fluid. That's what that message says.

I went black on Bettys headliner, as it's java black, now has a 5% window tints, black leather interior etc. Will paint the wheels black too. I also painted all the interior trims to black, and I'm trying to hunt down some BMW grab handles in black, but they are no longer made, so.... I...

Some say, that Martrim is good. Their service etc sure is, but the fabric.. mm.. Not a good enough 4 way stretch for the "map pockets" section on the headliner. It won't stretch enough to attach to the corners as theres a lot going on around there.

I'm keen to see if anyone can answer this as my 2004 4.6 (sold in us) has a XM50...... number on the block next to the dipstick. I have no info from the previous owners time concerning any repairs. Nor have I found anything googling around.

Don't correct it with turning the steering wheel. Do it the right way, adjusting draglinks (etc whatever my memory just turned off looking for the correct term) it's not that bad of a job.

My 2004 US import with DOT lights doesn't have the leveling switch at all, so I suppose there only is the old fashioned manual way to adjust the level from the headlamp itself. And my 2003 German import with "normal" non dot lights has it.

Ooooh, I love that undo and arrow on the spanner. I will have to do this for mine too. So far I have had to look at some youtube videos, every darn time I need to take the fan out. I never seem to "understand/remember" the correct way to spin it off. Glad to see I'm not the only one with this...