I have now!

Erm, it’s dropped four exhaust valves. It was driving fine, then he parked it up for the night, but when he came to start it next morning, it was locked up. What’s odd is that the timing belt tensioner was still in place and the belt was tight. As far as I can tell, by estimating turns, the...

I’ve found several swollen rubber buffers from normal grease being used, and I always replace the pin and use silicone grease and have never had a problem. Red rubber grease is also an option. In a pinch I’ve just pulled off the buffer and used the bare pin, with no problems.

I use Comma Xstream G30.

Yes, expensive. OEM thermostat currently about £40, and the job took me about 4 hours. So your garage is looking for over £100 per hour, or they don’t want the job. Td4 needs OAT (pink) coolant.

I used some silicone grease to hold it there. There was sealant all round the mating (non-sealing) flat areas of the pump, outside the O-ring, and gumming up all the bolts and locating dowel holes. So far, so good. My mate’s taken it back for a cautious test, and all being well we’ll put on a...

Metal. But probably a cheap one as there are various signs of an ape working on the thing. Sealant in the wrong places, stripped and missing bolts... that kind of thing.

Just stripping down to change the water pump (only a feeble dribble into the expansion tank). The timing appears to be a tooth off (crank ahead of the valves, assuming the crank pulley runs clockwise). The water pump impeller just spins on its axis; not being driven by the pulley, which is a...

Yes, I found that site. Very useful.

Thanks all. We had a look yesterday: Coolant tank is cracked but not leaking yet (soapy water round area while pressurised). Fans work. The flow into the header tank is a feeble dribble, even after flushing rad and block. Evidence of coppery K seal in tank, conversely, it doesn’t look like the...

Thanks. You mean if the head gets cooked, it loses its hardness? I’ve not had that test done on a head before.

A mate of mine has bought a 1.8 (04, I think). I asked about the head gasket and he said it had been done, but now it’s overheated. I haven’t seen it yet, but I think it’s about to turn up at my workshop... My plan is, from research on here: 1. Check for other reasons for overheating (fan...

Have you managed to do this? I thought the bearings were moulded into the rubber, and usually cut up the mount and bearing to get them off the shaft.

I think that’s flinger - any water running down the shaft gets flung away rather than dribbling down into the bearing. @andyfreelandy that rust is ‘normal for Scotland’.

Closely inspect the connector and wiring to the rail pressure sensor for corrosion. Try wiggling it to get the fault to occur. HP pump regulator O ring also a possibility.

https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/fuel-pressure-regulator-repair-loom-ymq503320-p-6875.html Cleaning it up will get you going, but the kit above is a permanent fix. Good spot, J_D!

https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/fuel-pressure-regulator-repair-loom-ymq503320-p-6875.html Cleaning it up will get you going, but the kit above is a permanent fix. Good spot, J_D!

I’m happy to not use adblock so the forum gets money, but ads are now appearing between lines in posts. This is a step too far.

I’m happy to not use adblock so the forum gets money, but ads are now appearing between lines in posts. This is a step too far.

I would compare results with one or more of the other wheels if you try this ^^^. The older ABS system used simple passive sensors which would output AC, whereas the newer ones might be two-wire Hall sensors which require a power supply.