It’s 5.30pm - are you in an old folks’ home?!

Very good. You don’t often see problems with the injector connections. Do you have the i930? I think it can save fault codes.

As you suggest, most likely to be corrosion in the fuse holder leading to poor connection leading to heat. I find either silicone spray or silicone grease helps avoid this. The PDF does suggest three separate elements (labelled ‘3,2,3’ - mistake!) so you should run ok at 2/3 power. If it’s just...

There are various recon options for the turbo, but I would check the crankcase breather before anything else. And keep a stanley knife and rag in the glovebox in case of runaway!

A more succinct solution: stop using LR main dealers. They call them main stealers for a reason. Assuming you are, of course. Ask on here about a good independent LR garage.

Three problems: 1. Paying someone else to do the work. 2. Using all LR parts. 3. Having a Freelander 2. By all accounts these are quite tricky and expensive cars to own. I would never have one. If you want a cheap and easy car to run and service, get a FL1. If you want a bit of luxury with...

Also done, with a Sláinte at the end.

Although I’m broadly happy with Bell, I have had a few problems: 1. The rubber diaphragm on one of their bearings failed prematurely. 2. Another bearing went rough within a year. 3. A recon VCU I had locked up dead. Sent it back, it was a needle roller bearing (not changed at recon.). 4...

No, it’s eaten some of the suction cup so it no longer sticks on.

Of the 8 exhaust valves, 2 were ok, 4 were broken off and 2 were bent. I’ve replaced all 8 with Osvat ones. What a fiddle getting the collets back in! Couldn’t lap the valves, as some sh1tty little mouse had eaten a piece out of my valve grinding stick. But my old engine refurb book says...

In that case it could be just condensation in the engine.

Is it missing when it eventually starts? Could still be an injector. Can you identify which one is struggling by unplugging one by one as it’s running roughly?

Pirelli Scorpion STR is pretty good.

I’ve always thought they were some form of damper, either to prevent clicking as the brakes are applied, or to damp the movement of the caliper back and forth.

Did you get any money for that?

Got small problem here while I’m waiting for the bits - a genuine timing belt and tensioner have arrived, but they don’t come with a replacement tensioner bolt. The manual does say not to re-use the old one. Where can I get one, and why doesn’t the tensioner come with one?

Cyl 2 and 4 valves are busted off, and 3 are clearly bent. It looks like the lot has taken a hammering for a little while. Can’t imagine all that happening between shutting the car off and re-starting.

We’ll never know. His wife bought the car sight unseen :eek: It was one tooth out in the worst direction - meaning the pistons were ahead of the exhaust valves, so they would be approaching each other. The other way, the intakes would approach the piston, but it would be retreating. Maybe that.

I’ll replace all the exhaust valves, as two more seem to be bent. My Sykes tool doesn’t have the reach to get to them - any recommendations for valve spring compressor tools for the K series?

Yes, broken off. If you remember, I found the timing was out, with the valves 1 tooth late. I wonder if this meant the pistons initially hammered the exhaust valves on the exhaust stroke, and they’ve been operating slightly bent ever since, and finally locked up. As I say, the tensioner and...