Thanks Rich, There are a few used roof's on ebay but all require collection and are a good 700 miles from me. The design of the glass sunroof is atrocious, Land Rover need a real kicking expecting the roof skin to support so much weight. The metal sunroof which came later had six supporting...

Trying to figure out how to deal with this - Its above the sunroof so I cant brace it from below in any way. Tried getting it hot and quenching to see if the metal would shrink back, worked a little bit but not enough. Not worried about how it looks but it will pool the water quite badly...

Yes beautiful Port William on the south coast

Success!!! Came off really easy with my wife's help :) I used two engine cranes, the first one is bolted via a piece of angle iron across the rear mounting points for the front seats. I used a leveling cradle to spread the load and more importantly give some control over tilt. I backed this up...

That is just stunning work, so satisfying seeing something evolve out of what essentially was scrap metal, love watching this thread

Finished the rear quarter so thats all the major body repairs done now. Got some work on the tailgate seam channel to do and in the scuttle area which will be easier to do once the body is off the chassis - Quick question, is there supposed to be an upstand for the tailgate seal on top of...

Amazingly they do seem to be selling for those prices. I guess if you add up all the components, materials and labour involved its a lot of money.

Thanks Dave very much appreciated. I will take a look at Range Rover Restorations, been watching Church House Classics which is entertaining. Got the wheel arches and boot side floor welded in place - Door on to check everything lines up - Next is to do all the patching which is very time...

This is a right mess, worse than the passenger side. I have had to go a long way up the C post to get good metal. The area had been heavily repaired with patches everywhere, underneath them was just rotten through -

Its a specific thinner - https://makercoating.com/thinners-cleaners/21272-corroless-thinner-no-2.html only needs less than 5% with a 1.4mm nozzle spraying at about 90psi. I noticed that standard thinners doesn't clean the gun very well so dont think it will work when spraying. I use the...

Yes its Corroless S2, really nice stuff to work with, sprays nice and flats out well.

Here you go! Just finished the drivers side sill, floor and foot well repairs. Slightly easier than the passenger side, not as much rot but also learned a lot from the passenger side - For anyone replacing the entire sill with the Froggatts kit the trick is to weld the rear closer piece in...

Thank you I am doing my best to do a good job. Wow!! - Drivers sill was just jam packed with rust, years of repairs one on top of another

Thought I had better check to see everything still fits, just bolted doors and wings on no finessing just yet - Wont actually use this wing as the fixing at the front edge has completely rotted away but I can see the profile is ok -

Got the rear quarter done, it was in a bad shape the bottom of the C pillar had completely rotted away and had been badly repaired, I cut away all of the wheel arch and boot floor side panel - Then set about replacing everything again taking care to paint any bare surfaces. I also got rid of...

Over the past week I have moved on to repairing the passenger floor, footwell and A post. The car had been driven I think for some time with the holes in the footwell and as rubber mats where in use the carpet was sodden and rusted the floor completely. This is where I was starting from -...

Thinking this through I can see the most obvious place for water to get in is the wiring grommet. On my car there was also sealant around the door hinges. I think if I do put drainage holes in I will make up some form of grommet that lines the hole itself as they always seam to start rusting there.

Thanks Rich, I will clean it all off at some point to check but it is some form of self amalgamating tape that has been used so I dont think it is just lubricant. The system was empty when I discharged it so I guess there must have been a leak somewhere.

I cant make my mind up about the drainage hole, in that position its going to let water in as much as let water out, my feeling is just to flood the bottom with Dinitrol through the inside of the post for instance through the seat belt mounting, not sure yet.

So I can now move on to body repairs starting with the nearside sill. First I used some 20mm bar to act as reference and positioning points for the A and B posts plus the forward seat mount - This way I will know for certain when fitting the new sill that everything will be in the correct...