when I had a similar issue,mine was simply a front tyre that appeared to resemble a thrupenny bit.

mmmmm,i bought a "genuine" l/r camshaft of the bay of e about a year ago,it lasted 3000 miles and it was f££ked.i did the job a second time with a kent h180 cam from turner engineering just to guarantee the quality of the parts.

seriously 200 spondulicks for a flexplate?

bung em £320 and the part......

why are you replacing con rod or main cap bolts?

I would be planning a change of crank bearings very much sooner rather than later,otherwise you will be removing an engine.

Fancy not knowing what a johnny seven is young whippersnapper!!!!!

put the original in, if its not broken then don't fix it......

Now you can see how easy it is to remove the oil pump prv surely the plan now is to get down and dirty with the one on the motor.....

My understanding is the prv on the left is the one which vents excess pressure back to the sump and the one on the right is the oil filter bypass valve in case the filter is blocked.

ditto:D

the only time I would change the coil packs without removing the upper manifold is when you have lpg fitted.

bang on as always wammers.:clap2:

sucka........:pop2:

im not sure if its the same setup on the gems p38,but on the disco gems setup its quite common to switch the fuel temperature and the engine temperature wiring over which causes the fuel trims to go massively rich.basically, the fuel will always be cooler than the engine,therefore the engine...

is this something that has just happened? or has the engine been apart recently.

i was under the impression that orange connectors is the before cat sensor and grey was for the after cat position,ie as on n/American spec vehicles?

I wish mine could be fixed that easily.......

mine had excactly the same problem,compression test fine, no leaks but horrendous oil consumption.i would say that the oil control rings are almost certainly worn out.:(

perfectly normal.