I'm quite sure that this is not possible and I will have to drop the transfer box. I'd like to avoid taking the front exhaust pipes (with the cats) off, contrary to RAVE procedure. Only reason why this may be required that I can see is the wiring to the lambda sensor. Anybody know if there's...

Anyone know if its possible to reach into the rear housing where the park gear is from the intermediate housing, if the valve body is removed? I've spent two hours searching for photos or videos and poking the gearbox with the borescope but can't get a conclusion on whether this is possible or not.

So I finally found time to continue on my quest. Took the pan off, and took the sensor out. Then stuck a borescope in the hole. Not good news. Seems like indeed the bolts for the trigger wheel came loose. Hopefully they didn't do too much damage inside. Now I need to have a think about how...

Thanks for doing that! I checked from either pin to the gearbox casing with the ECU plug (C1320) disconnected and have infinite resistance there. I do get readings with the ECU plug connected but that's not the correct way to measure I think because then you're measuring the ECU side. (I do...

Thanks already! The reason I would prefer the sensor is that I need to open the gearbox anyway for a filter change, and with a used ECU you never know what you'll get. But yeah, changing the ECU is indeed a lot easier.

So the manual does not tell that there is a difference in reading depending on polarity? You are sure that you did not get a reading in both ways? I will disconnect the ECU tomorrow and measure on the connector there, if I still get the same result (both ways 320ohms) I think the conclusion is...

Aha, but I get a resistance measurement regardless of polarity! I get the 320 ohms both ways.

But would I then be able to measure 320 ohms across those two wires? My voltage measurement seems to suggest something is happening because the measured AC voltage does increase with speed but is very low. So lets say this measurement is multiplied with 100 then we come into the range of...

So I did a road test reading AC volts across the two sensor wires: - at 50 kph --> 7mV - at 70 kph --> 16mV - at 90 kph --> 24mV To me that just seems like noise, and not a signal. Again checked resistance and comes back between 300-350 ohm which is a typical value for inductive speed sensors...

Seems like someone beat you to it so that saves you time and effort but thank you anyway ;) for reference I was measuring on the ECU connector in the car itself, pins 42 and 14 for the post 99 V8. Thanks! Only 2 ohms off the reading of mine, but I only checked one way. Will check both ways to...

A scope would allow me to rule out duff ECU, which I think is highly unlikely. What would be nice is if I had a spare sensor to compare resistance with but at about 80€ excl postage I'm not gonna take a chance. So if anyone has STC4444 on the shelf and is able to take a measurement? Hehe...

Well apparently there's two set screws to stop the ring from spinning on the shaft. The guy in this topic had this issue: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/anti-stall-fault.307789/#google_vignette And then here's another one...

When driving the car the output shaft speed reading in Nanocom remains zero. So if the sensor is fine and the voltage into the ECU as well I guess the spinning reluctor ring is the most probable issue. I see it's a shielded sensor, will check the shield wire for continuity just in case.

Good point, the flu got to my brains I think.. :vb-rolleyes: Anyway I measured resistance of the sensor across pins 42 & 14 on the ECU connector and I get 309 ohms. I recall someone on the webz saying this should be 300-320 ohms. Anybody know if this is correct? Also means there's no issue in...

I fell ill earlier this week so was only now able to go outside and continue diagnosing. Battery voltage with engine running: 14.55V Battery voltage reported in the Nanocom for the gearbox ECU: 13.5-13.7V No idea why there's a 1V drop but still, 13.5V should be enough for the ECU. Turbine...

My bad, typo, mine's a 1999 model. I'll have a look into the voltage coming to the ECU, thanks!

Will have a check on battery voltage! I filled the gearbox following procedure as per RAVE: filling with engine off, cycling through gears, then leaving the car running and topping up until it starts to drip out of filler hole. I do have an unidentified oil leak however, maybe this is related...

So after 500km of troublefree motoring my p38 decided it was time for a party. It's a 1990 1999 4.0 SE. One of the issues is with the gearbox. When setting off all is fine but when it shifts into second gear it goes into limp mode and says 'gearbox fault'. Reading with the Nanocom I get...

Makes sense! I use it in the same way when grabbing the lines with pliers. I was thinking about new lines but seems like a bit of a faff to fit them...

I had one airline going to the rear right air spring which was scratched and leaking a bit at the compressor side. I went onto Google and found many posts, mostly on the RR.net forum, of people claiming you can easily cut the line back a tiny bit and then chamfer the edge with a pencil...