If you are making the EAS plug for the Hawkeye Total you could also look at my post in rangerovers.net, P38 section, titled: Hawkeye BA 5074 EAS dongle wiring diagram and photos

"I don’t remember any one telling me that my spare tyre would no longer fit in the wheel well in the boot." If you asked I missed it but I could have told you about this as I have BFG KO2 tires which are 31.5 inches and the only way I can get the spare to fit is by deflating it. I have thought...

On YouTube the Norwegian fellow has a good video where he dismantled a door latch and shows how everything works including superlock.

Yes, there is more to Terrain Response than modifying TC action. In my example of Snow mode I didn't even mention TC in relation to the action of Snow mode although that might be modified as well.

XR8 has sent out kits with the wrong size O rings on occasion. I get my kits from 4x4airseals www.4x4airseals.com

+1 on the compression test. I think an engine swap would be pretty straightforward. I have read there is a top bolt on the bell housing that is hard to get at. I think you need to remove engine mounts to lower engine to get at it I have also read that you should not remove the torque converter...

Don't get me wrong in my comment about terrain response. I don't mean to disparage traction control. I think it is great and let's my 99 P38 follow the rest of the gang everywhere. With regard to terrain response, take the Snow setting as an example. In this setting the car starts in 2nd gear...

Yesterday I had 3 wheels off the ground and the trans in neutral. Still could not get much of a wiggle out of anything. I think I am going to change the center steady bearing as it is fairly cheap. $57US and from what I have read taking out the drive shaft is not too difficult. I will have to...

As you can imagine, an empty pickup is very light in the rear. 2 wheel drive ones are useless in snow and the rear wheels on a 4x4 don't do much. Being light is only good for crossing deep mud. I don't really think terrain response adds all that much extra capability. If you think about what...

Exactly what I thought, or the center steady bearing, but could not get a wiggle out of anything. Going to have a second look.

Re-balancing the wheels did not correct the problem. Went for a drive later in the day and the vibration seemed almost gone and at 120kph I felt nothing. Had dinner and went for another drive and vibration back again. Very strange. Think I will crawl under the car one more time before I visit...

Discs looked OK. I would swear it was the center steady bearing on the rear driveshaft but could not get a wiggle out of anything. Will see what happens after re-balance of the wheels. One wheel weight fell off when we rotated the wheels so I would not be surprised to find others missing. Thanks...

Spent the morning trying to figure out what is causing a sort of " thump" and vibration that seems like something is out of balance on my 2008 full size SC. Jacked up each wheel and could find nothing loose. Drive shafts seem fine. Got all 4 wheels off the ground and ran the car. It didn't like...

There are a lot of posts on this subject on rangerovers.net. Seems to be a common problem. I have had my drivers door do this twice. Basically fixed itself. I have Marty's rebuilt latches so I am thinking a bad connection somewhere. Here is a post from Marty that suggests a work around.

I had one of the older versions in a 3/4 ton GMC 4x4. A lot of clacking, banging and jerking going around corners. Hard to drive on pavement in slippy conditions. Would not recommend for street use. There is a very good YouTube video by a company that sells every type of locker. He describes all...

Turns out I did not tap the sensor down far enough. I could not push it in so had to use a hammer. Was a bit worried about damaging it so went lite on the tapping. Comparing to the left side I could see it was far too high. Tapped all the way down with rubber mallet, cleared code with Hawkeye...

Today we swapped them over. The hub on the car came out a little easier. Only problem was I could not get the ABS sensor out without destroying it. Why do they get stuck so solidly when they are in a copper sleeve and coated in grease?? Put it all back together with a sensor from my parts bin...

After I fixed my display with a zebra strip and refitted it I also saw -40 on the display but after driving it started giving a correct reading.

Currently in the process of replacing the right front hub/wheel bearing on my 99 P38. Noticed some vibration at 100 to 110 kph and a sort of rumbling noise. Checked front wheels and found could wiggle the right front. It seems you can buy the wheel bearing for around $200 US but the assembly is...

Hmm...now that you mention it I was probably using Liquid Wrench in the past. Maybe I will give it a try again.