Are they higher than the filling plug? Worst case some oil comes out and you can refill.

Try the manufacturer for opening instructions or if they can recommend a lock smith. For 300 you can buy a nice angle grinder and new cabinet. Just grind the gap between door and cabinet then fit new lock

But didn't say where the noise was from!? No noise when stationary would rule out pump. I'd start with the brakes and pads first if they need doing

As far as I know all it needs to see is a resistance across the terminals to clear the light. If you could find what the value is then you could isolate the circuit.

You can have a motor trade policy for purpose of repairing cars or testing etc. Adrian flux do a add on to give you comp cover on any car as long as your policy is with them.

Depending on your reason, would a part time motor trader suffice?

Nice brekkie at nefyn golf club

If you put oil down the bores before compression test, a higher reading would indicate rings as the oil temporary seals it.

Cheap tap and die set to clean the threads, I can put them in by hand. A strategic hole under the front 2 bolts saves taking off a layer of skin. But the tray often doesn't get put back on straight away, getting it lined up on your back is worse than a gearbox install. The spanner is always...

No problem if it starts working again and I imagine once broke it'll just stay open. Not heard of one going closed.

The pictures from @Arctic2 as so helpful, thanks for putting in the time and effort

Same here, I can't leave it overnight with the handbrake on or it sticks.

The handbrake lever, bottom of pic 4, needs to be free to enable the handbrake to release. It's a little lever.

Probably the radio itself.

Maybe some help, an e4 error on a rover is inside temp sensor issue. Where it is I don't know. But I looked for e4 air con fault rover. If you can find some images it may be the same system.

If using a heat gun, and the car is scrap, warm the surrounding metal rather than the rubber.

Single spot light on the rear will stop that

The bleed screw is on a loose bit of pipe down the UK passenger side. The master cylinder is tiny and be careful not to drop any of the black insulation in it. I use a syringe to slowly fill it, or you could suck some of the old fluid out first to change it.

Shop around for price but I have recently found Halfords cheaper if you either use trade card or join their motoring club.

Try bleeding the clutch. Mine goes like that every 6 months or so and air in the system is common, especially if the clutch or master cylinder has been changed in its life.