Haha, yes, you’re absolutely right! waiting for new sensor to turn up now. Hopefully will be dry enough at weekend to breakout the air compressor - both sides coming apart to do sensor one side and diff oil seal on the other. anyone know what oil I need to refill the rear diff?

Mine is a 2001 “Y”. Came from the North Yorkshire area originally, but I suspect that its early life was as an urban runabout (as many where). looks good behind the plastic liners though. It is the end of the sills that have become crunchy and somewhat depressingly great chunks of rust came...

rust proofing is certainly a good idea. Some of the problems on mine appears to be related to failure of the underseal - and I suspect that moisture has been trapped against the metal. After the MoT I'll take a wire brush on a grinder and see how much metal still survives - and then think about...

That's what I am thinking too - worth a punt...

I had, thanks - the question I have not been able to get answered is whether the car will accept this "new" module - the dealership says no, but then they would say that wouldn't they?

@gstuart - brilliant! I did get some limited information from Land Rover themselves, but this information is super helpful! Hope you're keeping well mate - and Happy New Year! :)

Probably need an oscilloscope, or perhaps a CAN bus code reader...?

While under my Hippo yesterday, feeling a little frustrated by my having ordered the incorrect ABS sensor (incorrectly listed on eBay as being suitable for a 2001 FL1), I had a little look around at the underside of the car. Obviously, the fuel tank cradle is a little crusty, but I don't think...

I've been ignoring this for a while now, but I had a bit of time yesterday to get the wheel off and have a good look at what is going on. Unfortunately the sensor has failed - putting my multimeter over the sensor gives an open circuit. I had already purchased a spare reluctor/trigger ring...

No I don't - I may drop you a message later to find out more! I have also sent a message to Callrova and hopefully in the new year, I will have time to get access to the car once again and see if I can get some more insight into what exactly is going on!

I know - he seemed shocked that I asked for the recorded error codes before admitting that he'd deleted them! For better or worse, the fault recurred as a carbon copy, and I have the full list of these, although they don't provide a clear "smoking gun" clue as to where the fault truly lies...

Thanks! Will do :)

A vote for the pscan - it reads all versions of FL1. Really helpful for diagnosing the reasons why the three amigos come out to play, and the telemetry it can provide is perfect for uncovering those annoying intermittent faults. :)

Another vote for the Geolander GO15 - they're excellent in all road conditions - and fab in snow and fab in mud - what is not to like? :)

Wish mine had the heated seat loom - but there is no sign of this on my car (a lowly "S" spec 2001 model) :(

Hi guys, I wonder whether you clever folks can help. A simple question and then the scenario: Q: can you replace the rear fusebox/ BCU (part number LR078822) with a second hand unit - and what needs to be done to get the car to recognise it? The scenario: Three months ago, after, ironically...

I can't upload snowy pictures - sad face!

Thanks guys - if I fit multiple throttle bodies to my Sprint/Hill climb MGF, I may need to think about an alterantive vacuum source for the servo (if that stays) :)

Nor can I Nodge - I was thinking it was just me!

Just a quick question regarding the circuit that you are using to drive the vacuum pump - is that an off-the-shelf item? Where is it from? Dear old bay of fleas? :)