Just remembered. It blew the fuse on the petrol/LPG changeover - manually switched - as well & that's a 7.5 amp blade fuse. Default position of the relay is petrol & I can't remember which fuel I was on at the probable time it went so it wouldn't have stopped the car. If I had been on LPG the...

Blew the fuses for the aftermarket immobiliser & the aftermarket radio/cd player. I've since replaced both items - nothing to do with this issue - & can't remember what fuses they had in. Thoroughly cooked the battery, it swelled up a bit too - had to replace it. Nothing else damaged & none of...

Mine's on LPG & that does work better well advanced BUT I don't have any fancy gizmos to alter it so I've set it as far advanced as I can get on unleaded without pinking. Manual says TDC +/- 1 deg & I'm a little over 6 BTDC. Around 600 rpm in 'D' is where I'm at but I'm around a little over 800...

Sorry for not getting back to you before. Presumably the gap between the butterfly & the bore of the plenum chamber is correct - max 0.05mm (0.0002 in) measured at the bottom - & the area is clean? If the gap is too big then effectively you've a partially open throttle If it's OK then, as you...

Flapper or Hotwire?

If you have a groove worn into the flange then you'll struggle to get a good leak free seal. Cure is either a new flange - which I did on my '86 - or the appropriate size speedisleeve.

Revs dropping as the load on the alternator increases is entirely normal. If the revs drop too far then the ignition light may well illuminate or flicker. If you increase the revs it should go out. The later Classic Range Rover was fitted with a stepper motor & a more sophisticated ECU which...

Used the Elring composites on mine (1986 3.5EFi Classic). Heads had had a small amount skimmed, can't remember the amount but it was single figures. Reassembled using the Elrings & the covered valley gasket. No issues & didn't need to shim the rocker towers. Haven't noticed any reduction in...

Ashcroft's take on it: "I have a 4 speed ZF Auto and it sticks in first gear in the morning or when cold and is reluctant to change up from 1st gear. Once the gearbox has warmed up it shifts normally. Why? The governor valve is sticking, which can be caused by contamination. i.e. clutch plates...

Assuming petrol it's item 10 in this link. Heat shield, LR part number ESR4121 https://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/91104/91120/7207/91168

There appears to be a faint bronze colour showing on the shells in your photos, esp the top one. If that is the case they are worn & getting to the end of their useful life so need replacing. Use a micrometer on the big end journals to check for any ovality.

I sympathise. Did the same trick some years ago with my Mercedes Sprinter 208CDi van. Syphoned the tank. Changed the fuel filter. (Filled the new one with diesel before fitting which is normal on the Sprinters) Refilled with diesel. After a bit of cranking it started & ran fine - & has continued...

Not an overhead camshaft engine so unlikely to be a bit of that. Anything getting there from above would have to have: 1. Been left in there when the heads were last off. 2. Been sucked in through an inlet valve. 3. Be a bit of the head of an inlet or exhaust valve. 4. Be a bit of broken spark...

I agree Perhaps using a bit of engineer's blue to identify any problems.

I think what he's saying is with the head removed & upside down with the valves in place is fill the dished area with water & blow compressed air into the respective inlet & exhaust ports whilst looking for bubbles in the water to see how well the valves are sealing.

https://new.lrcat.com/ Have a look through the relevant section in the link (probably 'C' )& you'll likely find a full description plus the LR part number.

Be an idea to put which Range Rover it is at the start of each new thread. Think a lot of people will just pass the post by without looking at your post history to find that out.

I believe it is possible to straighten it, there was a 'how to' on another forum but I can't remember which one. Involved putting a long piece of wood against the bottom centre of the top tailgate & the other end on the ground/opened bottom tailgate & pressing down on the bottom corners. Never...

If you don't already know always close the ally ones by pressing on the lower corners, not the centre. Unlike the steel ones they can bow slightly & you then start wondering why the catches don't engage as well.

Currently one on ebay. In Italy. A snip at EUR 259.00 + p&p. :eek: