No idea, you could always ask him.

Hats off to this fellow for videoing both left and right axle/steering sides to highlight the ferocity at 50mph https://www.facebook.com/groups/465500007267059/user/822833150/

Take a look on carandclassic.co.uk , there's always a good selection available, many with excellent photograph detail.

Buy these and be done with it. https://www.sgs-engineering.com/js3-axle-stands

All very true. But...there's always a but...every classic vehicle I've seen on road/on track after a knock and the ARB/GRP material's fooked and it looks bloomin' awful. Sometimes it can be GRP repaired in-situ but it's very messy and takes an age to repair properly. On my MGBV8 Sebring the...

As per @dag019 , buy original material wing panels....stay clear of plastic/GRP jobbies. There are plenty of outer wing panels for sale on FaceBook and eBay, or buy new from Paintman Panels. Paintman have very good panels/doors that fit correctly. eta: they also offer very good customer...

Buy some marine ply/treated chipboard and cover in your preferred vinyl, ala black. That's what I made for mine fitting into the door frame + fitted Dynamat to all doors. It really does dampen down the tininess of the doors/interior.

Paintman Panels...?

Thank heavens for that. Thought @slomofo had smacked his head, gone all loons and sold the Land Rover!

You'll be scouring the Landy adverts by 13.30 today. Post pics when a new one arrives ;)

It's way worse than many of us care to admit. If you're wanting transport whilst at Uni, discover the wonderous world of bangernomics and buy a £500 snotter. It's a great way for a student to have transport and I'll guarantee you and your new Uni friends will have more fun in a reliable low...

Or line the slipper with self adhesive neoprene foam ;)

Been meaning to do this for years. Just found a four pack bundle on Amazon for £14 delivered. Let's hope I don't go river plunging between now and Wednesday!

Look here for the excellent Alko / Dixon Bate technical component pdf https://www.alko-tech.com/en_gb/get-download-file-data/13602 And here for auto product selection https://ukshop.alko-tech.com/trailer/towing-hitches/?count=18

This +1. Check swivel area for leaking, if not it's the hub seal + it's 100% worth checking your differential breather/s to make sure they're not blocked. If blocked, over time this will over pressurize the hub seals causing one side to leak.

If headlights in good condition install Osram Nightbreaker H4 bulbs [not the longlife versions]. These bulbs are very good and readily available from Amazon, Euro Car Parts, eBay.

+1 for not using washing up liquid. It used to be okay on original 100% rubber seals but not on these modern semi-plastic compounds that give up after a few years. I use glycerol for lube'ing rubbers/door seals etc,. It's readily available in standard liquid form costing £5-£10 a bottle and if...

Change to later parts. The fluid lines/volumes are near identical, but braking efficiencies are quite different. You're effectively running the later rear braking system so cylinder "push" volumes and braking pressures need to be balanced to ensure minimum risk of rear lock up. As note, I had...

I see what you there. I regularly take mine out for a good blatt along the M4/A34 to get up to full temperature and clear her bowels. She's yet to thank me for my dedicated tlc :rolleyes:

Yes, diesel cleaner + injectors, the whole fuel system. Then complete a thorough all fluids, all filters, all belts and pulleys +++ service. When this is done and you know all is clean/serviced and timing set up correctly then re-evaluate the smoke issue. Doing this separates the potential issue...