I'm re-building my EAS pump as it's scored to hell. But I just can't get the piston off its spline. I've removed the grub screw, and fully undone the screw under it (screw still in, but fully undone). I've been tapping the thing, prying on the backside like a monkey and it just won't budge. I...

Heel on the floor mat, moving from accelerator to brake my toes hit the plastic cover above the footwell. I don't have big feet. Size 8.5 UK. Arguably small. I can avoid hitting my toes, but I have to completely life my feet up off the floor and move them over. Does anybody else find that...

Bricks don't start the car however

Thanks to FootmanJames I managed to get a quote for £500. About half of the next best offer. That'll do, I'm done hunting around.

It would be interesting to see how difficult a P38 would be to steal. Look at it wrong and it will lock you out.

Is anyone else finding the P38 has become almost uninsurable? Living in the Croydon area, the normal online compare insurance policies are £1000+ Classic car insurance is even more expensive. Just been quoted £1500 by one of the big name classic car insurance firms. They think it's a...

I can't speak from personal experience, but I've been researching this recently, and Lanolin products appear to be the way to go. I believe they are better at displacing moisture where as waxoyl can sit on top of moisture. Lanolin is also less messy and easier to apply. Lanolin does need to be...

My welding was always terrible. Had a cheap Clarke mig and couldn't every get it set up right. On thin stuff I would either blow through, or get no penetration, nothing in-between. I then learnt tig and never looked back. If have the AC/DC version of this R-tech welder and I think it's great...

If it's the 4.0 then it's ULEZ compliant. The 4.6's aren't. However, because the P38's are only Euro2 compliant (and not Euro4) you have to write to Land Rover and ask for a Certificate of Conformity. If it's the 4.0, this should demonstrate that the NOx is less than 0.08g/km. I think the 4.0 is...

I didn't notice any cracking, but I didn't fully remove (just removed two accessible bolts and bent it back a bit) as I didn't want to remove the valve block with the limited time I had. Will check it once I have a replacement.

I had a bit of a fettle today. I couldn't find any leaks using the soapy water trick. I removed the inlet valve Insitu and found nothing suspicious. All o-rings looked to be in good nick and the valve moved smoothly. When deflating the system with the RSW software the tank failed to empty. It...

So I guess when it got hot at high speed it was loosing pressure through the pin hole. Then when it cooled down it was drawing air in through the pin hole resulting in an airlock. These pinholes are easy to find if you pump the system up to 15psi. You can hear the smallest hole hissing.

Thanks, worth pointing out that the fault will usually return 20 minutes into a journey. Never at the beginning. I assume this means it's not due to taking too long to rise. Unless it has a 20 minute allotted time to rise, but this doesn't sound likely.

My P38 has been playing a game of, I see you fixed this issue, here's another one for you... Suprise.... Anyway, I now keep getting EAS Fault messages on the dashboard. Code using RSW tool is (Inltet Valve Stuck open). If I clear it, it will work fine for a couple of days and the fault will...

I figured you were trying to say "on the mistresses bike"

Got my old thermostat off today and I can confirm that the old one does fully open and it fully shuts off the top 18mm inlet. It also opens quicker than the new one so I'm going to refit the old one and send the new one back. Despite looking crusty on the outside it was very clean inside so...

I'm worried that when I fit this thermostat, when the engine is hot, I won't get as much flow going through the radiator as there is a large amount bypassing as it's unrestricted.

This is where I think my new Thermostat isn't doing what it's supposed to do. Unless, boiling it at 100 degrees isn't fully opening the thermostat.

Drilling the thermostat won't prevent bypass however, which is my concern.

The thermostat I have seals the rad flow pipe really well. When closed, nothing gets through. I'll get the old one off this weekend and see if that one seals the bypass when the thermostat is open.